-- https://www.phpmyadmin.net/
--

START TRANSACTION;



--
-- Database: `jullcars`
--

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_action_logs`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_action_logs` (
  `id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `message_language_key` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `message` text CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `log_date` datetime NOT NULL,
  `extension` varchar(50) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `user_id` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `item_id` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `ip_address` varchar(40) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '0.0.0.0'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_action_logs_extensions`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_action_logs_extensions` (
  `id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `extension` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT ''
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

--
-- Dumping data for table `lfuve_action_logs_extensions`
--

INSERT INTO `lfuve_action_logs_extensions` (`id`, `extension`) VALUES
(1, 'com_banners'),
(2, 'com_cache'),
(3, 'com_categories'),
(4, 'com_config'),
(5, 'com_contact'),
(6, 'com_content'),
(7, 'com_installer'),
(8, 'com_media'),
(9, 'com_menus'),
(10, 'com_messages'),
(11, 'com_modules'),
(12, 'com_newsfeeds'),
(13, 'com_plugins'),
(14, 'com_redirect'),
(15, 'com_tags'),
(16, 'com_templates'),
(17, 'com_users'),
(18, 'com_checkin'),
(19, 'com_scheduler'),
(20, 'com_fields');

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_action_logs_users`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_action_logs_users` (
  `user_id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `notify` tinyint UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `extensions` text CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_action_log_config`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_action_log_config` (
  `id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `type_title` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `type_alias` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `id_holder` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `title_holder` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `table_name` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `text_prefix` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

--
-- Dumping data for table `lfuve_action_log_config`
--

INSERT INTO `lfuve_action_log_config` (`id`, `type_title`, `type_alias`, `id_holder`, `title_holder`, `table_name`, `text_prefix`) VALUES
(1, 'article', 'com_content.article', 'id', 'title', '#__content', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(2, 'article', 'com_content.form', 'id', 'title', '#__content', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(3, 'banner', 'com_banners.banner', 'id', 'name', '#__banners', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(4, 'user_note', 'com_users.note', 'id', 'subject', '#__user_notes', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(5, 'media', 'com_media.file', '', 'name', '', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(6, 'category', 'com_categories.category', 'id', 'title', '#__categories', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(7, 'menu', 'com_menus.menu', 'id', 'title', '#__menu_types', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(8, 'menu_item', 'com_menus.item', 'id', 'title', '#__menu', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(9, 'newsfeed', 'com_newsfeeds.newsfeed', 'id', 'name', '#__newsfeeds', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(10, 'link', 'com_redirect.link', 'id', 'old_url', '#__redirect_links', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(11, 'tag', 'com_tags.tag', 'id', 'title', '#__tags', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(12, 'style', 'com_templates.style', 'id', 'title', '#__template_styles', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(13, 'plugin', 'com_plugins.plugin', 'extension_id', 'name', '#__extensions', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(14, 'component_config', 'com_config.component', 'extension_id', 'name', '', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(15, 'contact', 'com_contact.contact', 'id', 'name', '#__contact_details', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(16, 'module', 'com_modules.module', 'id', 'title', '#__modules', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(17, 'access_level', 'com_users.level', 'id', 'title', '#__viewlevels', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(18, 'banner_client', 'com_banners.client', 'id', 'name', '#__banner_clients', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(19, 'application_config', 'com_config.application', '', 'name', '', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(20, 'task', 'com_scheduler.task', 'id', 'title', '#__scheduler_tasks', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA'),
(21, 'field', 'com_fields.field', 'id', 'title', '#__fields', 'PLG_ACTIONLOG_JOOMLA');

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_akeeba_common`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_akeeba_common` (
  `key` varchar(255) NOT NULL,
  `value` longtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb3;

--
-- Dumping data for table `lfuve_akeeba_common`
--

INSERT INTO `lfuve_akeeba_common` (`key`, `value`) VALUES
('stats_lastrun', '1474479326'),
('stats_siteid', '8b5f52f71440238a3a5964ce46aefb329dd56301'),
('stats_siteurl', '85bfc4ec565e25bdd8462cc00ee82ac2');

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_assets`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_assets` (
  `id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL COMMENT 'Primary Key',
  `parent_id` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0' COMMENT 'Nested set parent.',
  `lft` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0' COMMENT 'Nested set lft.',
  `rgt` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0' COMMENT 'Nested set rgt.',
  `level` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL COMMENT 'The cached level in the nested tree.',
  `name` varchar(50) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL COMMENT 'The unique name for the asset.\n',
  `title` varchar(100) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL COMMENT 'The descriptive title for the asset.',
  `rules` varchar(5120) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL COMMENT 'JSON encoded access control.'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

--
-- Dumping data for table `lfuve_assets`
--

INSERT INTO `lfuve_assets` (`id`, `parent_id`, `lft`, `rgt`, `level`, `name`, `title`, `rules`) VALUES
(1, 0, 0, 247, 0, 'root.1', 'Root Asset', '{\"core.login.site\":{\"6\":1,\"2\":1},\"core.login.admin\":{\"6\":1},\"core.login.offline\":{\"6\":1},\"core.admin\":{\"8\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"7\":1},\"core.create\":{\"6\":1,\"3\":1},\"core.delete\":{\"6\":1},\"core.edit\":{\"6\":1,\"4\":1},\"core.edit.state\":{\"6\":1,\"5\":1},\"core.edit.own\":{\"6\":1,\"3\":1}}'),
(2, 1, 1, 2, 1, 'com_admin', 'com_admin', '{}'),
(3, 1, 3, 4, 1, 'com_banners', 'com_banners', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1},\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(4, 1, 5, 6, 1, 'com_cache', 'com_cache', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"7\":1}}'),
(5, 1, 7, 8, 1, 'com_checkin', 'com_checkin', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"7\":1}}'),
(6, 1, 9, 10, 1, 'com_config', 'com_config', '{}'),
(7, 1, 11, 12, 1, 'com_contact', 'com_contact', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1},\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[],\"core.edit.own\":[]}'),
(8, 1, 13, 108, 1, 'com_content', 'com_content', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1},\"core.create\":{\"3\":1},\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":{\"4\":1},\"core.edit.state\":{\"5\":1},\"core.edit.own\":[]}'),
(9, 1, 109, 110, 1, 'com_cpanel', 'com_cpanel', '{}'),
(10, 1, 111, 112, 1, 'com_installer', 'com_installer', '{\"core.admin\":[],\"core.manage\":{\"7\":0},\"core.delete\":{\"7\":0},\"core.edit.state\":{\"7\":0}}'),
(11, 1, 113, 114, 1, 'com_languages', 'com_languages', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":[],\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(12, 1, 115, 116, 1, 'com_login', 'com_login', '{}'),
(13, 1, 117, 118, 1, 'com_mailto', 'com_mailto', '{}'),
(14, 1, 119, 120, 1, 'com_massmail', 'com_massmail', '{}'),
(15, 1, 121, 122, 1, 'com_media', 'com_media', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1},\"core.create\":{\"3\":1},\"core.delete\":{\"5\":1}}'),
(16, 1, 123, 126, 1, 'com_menus', 'com_menus', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":[],\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(17, 1, 127, 128, 1, 'com_messages', 'com_messages', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"7\":1}}'),
(18, 1, 129, 158, 1, 'com_modules', 'com_modules', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":[],\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(19, 1, 159, 160, 1, 'com_newsfeeds', 'com_newsfeeds', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1},\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[],\"core.edit.own\":[]}'),
(20, 1, 161, 162, 1, 'com_plugins', 'com_plugins', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(21, 1, 163, 164, 1, 'com_redirect', 'com_redirect', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":[]}'),
(22, 1, 165, 166, 1, 'com_search', 'com_search', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1}}'),
(23, 1, 167, 168, 1, 'com_templates', 'com_templates', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":[],\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(24, 1, 169, 172, 1, 'com_users', 'com_users', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":[],\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(25, 1, 173, 174, 1, 'com_weblinks', 'com_weblinks', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1},\"core.create\":{\"3\":1},\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":{\"4\":1},\"core.edit.state\":{\"5\":1},\"core.edit.own\":[]}'),
(26, 1, 175, 176, 1, 'com_wrapper', 'com_wrapper', '{}'),
(32, 24, 170, 171, 1, 'com_users.category.7', 'Uncategorised', '{\"core.create\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(33, 1, 177, 178, 1, 'com_finder', 'com_finder', '{\"core.admin\":{\"7\":1},\"core.manage\":{\"6\":1}}'),
(34, 1, 179, 180, 1, 'com_joomlaupdate', 'com_joomlaupdate', '{\"core.admin\":[],\"core.manage\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(35, 1, 181, 182, 1, 'com_tags', 'com_tags', '{\"core.admin\":[],\"core.manage\":[],\"core.manage\":[],\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(56, 8, 14, 15, 2, '.category.34', '', ''),
(57, 8, 16, 17, 2, '.category.38', '', ''),
(58, 8, 18, 19, 2, '.category.35', '', ''),
(59, 8, 20, 21, 2, '.category.36', '', ''),
(60, 8, 22, 23, 2, '.category.37', '', ''),
(65, 1, 183, 184, 1, 'com_jce', 'jce', '{}'),
(98, 1, 185, 186, 1, 'com_contenthistory', 'com_contenthistory', '{}'),
(99, 1, 187, 188, 1, 'com_ajax', 'com_ajax', '{}'),
(100, 1, 189, 190, 1, 'com_postinstall', 'com_postinstall', '{}'),
(101, 18, 130, 131, 2, 'com_modules.module.93', 'Vehicle OS TouchSlider', '{\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(102, 18, 132, 133, 2, 'com_modules.module.94', 'VehicleManager New Vehicle Extended pro', '{\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(103, 18, 134, 135, 2, 'com_modules.module.95', 'VehicleManager Top PRO', '{\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(105, 1, 191, 192, 1, 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.46', 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.46', ''),
(106, 1, 193, 194, 1, 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.47', 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.47', ''),
(107, 1, 195, 196, 1, 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.48', 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.48', ''),
(108, 1, 197, 198, 1, 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.49', 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.49', ''),
(109, 1, 199, 200, 1, 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.50', 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.50', ''),
(110, 1, 201, 202, 1, 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.51', 'lfuve_vehiclemanager_main_categories.51', ''),
(111, 1, 203, 204, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.2', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.2', ''),
(112, 1, 205, 206, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.3', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.3', ''),
(113, 1, 207, 208, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.4', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.4', ''),
(114, 1, 209, 210, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.5', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.5', ''),
(115, 1, 211, 212, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.6', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.6', ''),
(116, 1, 213, 214, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.7', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.7', ''),
(117, 1, 215, 216, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.8', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.8', ''),
(118, 1, 217, 218, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.9', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.9', ''),
(119, 1, 219, 220, 1, '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.10', '#__vehiclemanager_vehicles.10', ''),
(120, 18, 136, 137, 2, 'com_modules.module.1', 'Main Menu', '{\"core.delete\":{\"6\":1},\"core.edit\":{\"6\":1,\"4\":1},\"core.edit.state\":{\"6\":1,\"5\":1}}'),
(121, 18, 138, 139, 2, 'com_modules.module.87', 'Search', '{\"core.delete\":{\"6\":1},\"core.edit\":{\"6\":1,\"4\":1},\"core.edit.state\":{\"6\":1,\"5\":1}}'),
(122, 18, 140, 141, 2, 'com_modules.module.96', 'OS TouchSlider', '{\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(132, 18, 142, 143, 2, 'com_modules.module.104', 'Footer Menu', '{\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(133, 18, 144, 145, 2, 'com_modules.module.105', 'JA Content Slider', '{\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[]}'),
(135, 18, 146, 147, 2, 'com_modules.module.17', 'Breadcrumbs (Top)', '{\"core.delete\":{\"6\":1},\"core.edit\":{\"6\":1,\"4\":1},\"core.edit.state\":{\"6\":1,\"5\":1}}'),
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(139, 18, 150, 151, 2, 'com_modules.module.107', 'Welcome to Jull Cars', '{\"core.delete\":{\"6\":1},\"core.edit\":{\"6\":1,\"4\":1},\"core.edit.state\":{\"6\":1,\"5\":1}}'),
(146, 18, 152, 153, 2, 'com_modules.module.112', 'Footer', '{\"core.delete\":[],\"core.edit\":[],\"core.edit.state\":[],\"module.edit.frontend\":[]}'),
(147, 16, 124, 125, 2, 'com_menus.menu.4', 'Footer Menu', '{}'),
(152, 18, 154, 155, 2, 'com_modules.module.116', 'Statistics', '{}'),
(159, 1, 221, 222, 1, 'com_fields', 'com_fields', '{}'),
(160, 1, 223, 224, 1, 'com_associations', 'com_associations', '{}'),
(161, 1, 225, 226, 1, 'com_jaextmanager', 'com_jaextmanager', '{}'),
(164, 1, 227, 228, 1, 'com_privacy', 'com_privacy', '{}'),
(165, 1, 229, 230, 1, 'com_actionlogs', 'com_actionlogs', '{}'),
(166, 18, 156, 157, 2, 'com_modules.module.10', 'Logged-in Users', '{}'),
(167, 8, 24, 27, 2, 'com_content.category.27', 'Jull Cars', '{}'),
(170, 8, 28, 41, 2, 'com_content.category.28', 'Cars', '{}'),
(171, 8, 42, 103, 2, 'com_content.category.29', 'Tech Guides', '{}'),
(172, 171, 43, 60, 3, 'com_content.category.30', 'S14 Tech Guides', '{}'),
(173, 171, 61, 90, 3, 'com_content.category.31', 'S14 & S15 Tech Guides', '{}'),
(174, 171, 91, 102, 3, 'com_content.category.32', 'S15 Tech Guides', '{}'),
(175, 170, 39, 40, 3, 'com_content.article.88', 'MG Maestro T16 Turbo (LM10)', '{}'),
(176, 170, 37, 38, 3, 'com_content.article.89', 'Rover 220 Turbo Coupe (R8)', '{}'),
(177, 170, 35, 36, 3, 'com_content.article.90', 'Nissan 200SX (S14)', '{}'),
(178, 170, 33, 34, 3, 'com_content.article.91', 'Toyota Hilux 4WD Pickup (YN65R)', '{}'),
(179, 170, 31, 32, 3, 'com_content.article.92', 'Toyota Hilux Surf SSR-G V6 (VZN185)', '{}'),
(180, 170, 29, 30, 3, 'com_content.article.93', 'Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero (S15)', '{}'),
(181, 167, 25, 26, 3, 'com_content.article.94', 'Welcome to Jull Cars!', '{}'),
(182, 210, 105, 106, 3, 'com_content.article.95', 'Privacy Policy', '{}'),
(183, 172, 44, 45, 4, 'com_content.article.96', 'Block the EGR valve', '{}'),
(184, 172, 46, 47, 4, 'com_content.article.97', 'Rear soundproofing', '{}'),
(185, 172, 48, 49, 4, 'com_content.article.98', 'Changing headlight bulbs (the easy way)', '{}'),
(186, 172, 50, 51, 4, 'com_content.article.99', 'De-bricking', '{}'),
(187, 172, 52, 53, 4, 'com_content.article.100', 'Re-badging', '{}'),
(188, 172, 54, 55, 4, 'com_content.article.101', 'Mesh the air scoop', '{}'),
(189, 172, 56, 57, 4, 'com_content.article.102', 'Fitting white dials', '{}'),
(190, 172, 58, 59, 4, 'com_content.article.103', 'Twin rear fog lamps', '{}'),
(191, 173, 62, 63, 4, 'com_content.article.104', 'Fitting a boost valve', '{}'),
(192, 173, 64, 65, 4, 'com_content.article.105', 'Fitting a boost gauge', '{}'),
(193, 173, 66, 67, 4, 'com_content.article.106', 'Fitting an A\'PEXi AVC-R', '{}'),
(194, 173, 68, 69, 4, 'com_content.article.107', 'Fitting a de-cat', '{}'),
(195, 173, 70, 71, 4, 'com_content.article.108', 'Fitting a pigeon', '{}'),
(196, 173, 72, 73, 4, 'com_content.article.109', 'Replacing front brake discs', '{}'),
(197, 173, 74, 75, 4, 'com_content.article.110', 'Replacing front brake pads', '{}'),
(198, 173, 76, 77, 4, 'com_content.article.111', 'Z32 rear brake conversion', '{}'),
(199, 173, 78, 79, 4, 'com_content.article.112', 'Fitting a Walbro', '{}'),
(200, 173, 80, 81, 4, 'com_content.article.113', 'Uprated WMIC', '{}'),
(201, 173, 82, 83, 4, 'com_content.article.114', 'Fitting HID converters', '{}'),
(202, 173, 84, 85, 4, 'com_content.article.115', '!*$@# bottom filter box clip!', '{}'),
(203, 173, 86, 87, 4, 'com_content.article.116', 'Front strut brace', '{}'),
(204, 173, 88, 89, 4, 'com_content.article.117', 'Coloured spark cover', '{}'),
(205, 174, 92, 93, 4, 'com_content.article.118', 'Replacing mirror motors', '{}'),
(206, 174, 94, 95, 4, 'com_content.article.119', 'Replacing air-conditioning filter', '{}'),
(207, 174, 96, 97, 4, 'com_content.article.120', 'Removing the combination meter', '{}'),
(208, 174, 98, 99, 4, 'com_content.article.121', 'Fitting a C\'s short shifter', '{}'),
(209, 174, 100, 101, 4, 'com_content.article.122', 'Check S15 fault codes - paperclip method', '{}'),
(210, 8, 104, 107, 2, 'com_content.category.33', 'Uncategorized', '{}'),
(212, 1, 231, 232, 1, 'com_guidedtours', 'com_guidedtours', '{}'),
(213, 1, 233, 234, 1, 'com_mails', 'com_mails', '{}'),
(214, 1, 235, 236, 1, 'com_scheduler', 'com_scheduler', '{}'),
(215, 1, 237, 238, 1, 'com_workflow', 'com_workflow', '{}'),
(216, 1, 239, 240, 1, 'com_easyjoomlabackup', 'com_easyjoomlabackup', '{}'),
(217, 1, 241, 242, 1, 'com_scheduler.task.1', 'com_scheduler.task.1', '{}'),
(218, 1, 243, 244, 1, 'com_scheduler.task.2', 'com_scheduler.task.2', '{}'),
(219, 1, 245, 246, 1, 'com_scheduler.task.3', 'com_scheduler.task.3', '{}');

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_associations`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_associations` (
  `id` int NOT NULL COMMENT 'A reference to the associated item.',
  `context` varchar(50) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL COMMENT 'The context of the associated item.',
  `key` char(32) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL COMMENT 'The key for the association computed from an md5 on associated ids.'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_banners`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_banners` (
  `id` int NOT NULL,
  `cid` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `type` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `name` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `alias` varchar(400) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_bin NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `imptotal` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `impmade` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `clicks` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `clickurl` varchar(2048) COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `state` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `catid` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `description` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `custombannercode` varchar(2048) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `sticky` tinyint UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `ordering` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `metakey` text COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `params` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `own_prefix` tinyint(1) NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `metakey_prefix` varchar(400) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `purchase_type` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '-1',
  `track_clicks` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '-1',
  `track_impressions` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '-1',
  `checked_out` int UNSIGNED DEFAULT NULL,
  `checked_out_time` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `publish_up` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `publish_down` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `reset` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `created` datetime NOT NULL,
  `language` char(7) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `created_by` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `created_by_alias` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `modified` datetime NOT NULL,
  `modified_by` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `version` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '1'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_banner_clients`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_banner_clients` (
  `id` int NOT NULL,
  `name` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `contact` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `email` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `extrainfo` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `state` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `checked_out` int UNSIGNED DEFAULT NULL,
  `checked_out_time` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `metakey` text COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `own_prefix` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `metakey_prefix` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `purchase_type` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '-1',
  `track_clicks` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '-1',
  `track_impressions` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '-1'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_banner_tracks`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_banner_tracks` (
  `track_date` datetime NOT NULL,
  `track_type` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `banner_id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `count` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_categories`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_categories` (
  `id` int NOT NULL,
  `asset_id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0' COMMENT 'FK to the #__assets table.',
  `parent_id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `lft` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `rgt` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `level` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `path` varchar(400) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `extension` varchar(50) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `title` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `alias` varchar(400) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_bin NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `note` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `description` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `published` tinyint(1) NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `checked_out` int UNSIGNED DEFAULT NULL,
  `checked_out_time` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `access` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `params` text CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `metadesc` varchar(1024) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '' COMMENT 'The meta description for the page.',
  `metakey` varchar(1024) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '' COMMENT 'The meta keywords for the page.',
  `metadata` varchar(2048) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '' COMMENT 'JSON encoded metadata properties.',
  `created_user_id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `created_time` datetime NOT NULL,
  `modified_user_id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `modified_time` datetime NOT NULL,
  `hits` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `language` char(7) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `version` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '1'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

--
-- Dumping data for table `lfuve_categories`
--

INSERT INTO `lfuve_categories` (`id`, `asset_id`, `parent_id`, `lft`, `rgt`, `level`, `path`, `extension`, `title`, `alias`, `note`, `description`, `published`, `checked_out`, `checked_out_time`, `access`, `params`, `metadesc`, `metakey`, `metadata`, `created_user_id`, `created_time`, `modified_user_id`, `modified_time`, `hits`, `language`, `version`) VALUES
(1, 0, 0, 0, 17, 0, '', 'system', 'ROOT', 'root', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{}', '', '', '', 42, '2011-01-01 00:00:01', 42, '2011-01-01 00:00:01', 0, '*', 1),
(7, 32, 1, 1, 2, 1, 'uncategorised', 'com_users', 'Uncategorised', 'uncategorised', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"target\":\"\",\"image\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"page_title\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 42, '2011-01-01 00:00:01', 42, '2011-01-01 00:00:01', 0, '*', 1),
(27, 167, 1, 3, 4, 1, 'jull-cars', 'com_content', 'Jull Cars', 'jull-cars', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"category_layout\":\"\",\"image\":\"\",\"image_alt\":\"\",\"t3_extrafields\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 465, '2021-02-08 14:04:27', 465, '2024-01-13 11:26:58', 0, '*', 1),
(28, 170, 1, 5, 6, 1, 'cars', 'com_content', 'Cars', 'cars', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"category_layout\":\"\",\"image\":\"\",\"image_alt\":\"\",\"t3_extrafields\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 465, '2024-01-13 11:27:12', 0, '2024-01-13 11:27:12', 0, '*', 1),
(29, 171, 1, 7, 14, 1, 'tech-guides', 'com_content', 'Tech Guides', 'tech-guides', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"category_layout\":\"\",\"image\":\"\",\"image_alt\":\"\",\"t3_extrafields\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 465, '2024-01-13 11:27:19', 0, '2024-01-13 11:27:19', 0, '*', 1),
(30, 172, 29, 8, 9, 2, 'tech-guides/s14-tech-guides', 'com_content', 'S14 Tech Guides', 's14-tech-guides', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"category_layout\":\"\",\"image\":\"\",\"image_alt\":\"\",\"t3_extrafields\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 465, '2024-01-13 11:27:38', 0, '2024-01-13 11:27:38', 0, '*', 1),
(31, 173, 29, 10, 11, 2, 'tech-guides/s14-s15-tech-guides', 'com_content', 'S14 & S15 Tech Guides', 's14-s15-tech-guides', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"category_layout\":\"\",\"image\":\"\",\"image_alt\":\"\",\"t3_extrafields\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 465, '2024-01-13 11:27:59', 0, '2024-01-13 11:27:59', 0, '*', 1),
(32, 174, 29, 12, 13, 2, 'tech-guides/s15-tech-guides', 'com_content', 'S15 Tech Guides', 's15-tech-guides', '', '', 1, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"category_layout\":\"\",\"image\":\"\",\"image_alt\":\"\",\"t3_extrafields\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 465, '2024-01-13 11:28:09', 0, '2024-01-13 11:28:09', 0, '*', 1),
(33, 210, 1, 15, 16, 1, 'uncategorized', 'com_content', 'Uncategorized', 'uncategorized', '', '', 0, NULL, NULL, 1, '{\"category_layout\":\"\",\"image\":\"\",\"image_alt\":\"\",\"t3_extrafields\":\"\"}', '', '', '{\"author\":\"\",\"robots\":\"\"}', 465, '2024-01-15 03:20:15', 0, '2024-01-15 03:20:15', 0, '*', 1);

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_contact_details`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_contact_details` (
  `id` int NOT NULL,
  `name` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `alias` varchar(400) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_bin NOT NULL,
  `con_position` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `address` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `suburb` varchar(100) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `state` varchar(100) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `country` varchar(100) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `postcode` varchar(100) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `telephone` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `fax` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `misc` longtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `image` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `email_to` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `default_con` tinyint UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `published` tinyint(1) NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `checked_out` int UNSIGNED DEFAULT NULL,
  `checked_out_time` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `ordering` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `params` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `user_id` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `catid` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `access` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `mobile` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `webpage` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `sortname1` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `sortname2` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `sortname3` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `language` varchar(7) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `created` datetime NOT NULL,
  `created_by` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `created_by_alias` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `modified` datetime NOT NULL,
  `modified_by` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `metakey` text COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `metadesc` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `metadata` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `featured` tinyint UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0' COMMENT 'Set if article is featured.',
  `publish_up` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `publish_down` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `version` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '1',
  `hits` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0'
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

-- --------------------------------------------------------

--
-- Table structure for table `lfuve_content`
--

CREATE TABLE `lfuve_content` (
  `id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL,
  `asset_id` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0' COMMENT 'FK to the #__assets table.',
  `title` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `alias` varchar(400) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_bin NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `introtext` longtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `fulltext` longtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `state` tinyint NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `catid` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci DEFAULT NULL,
  `created` datetime NOT NULL,
  `created_by` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `created_by_alias` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT '',
  `modified` datetime NOT NULL,
  `modified_by` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `checked_out` int UNSIGNED DEFAULT NULL,
  `checked_out_time` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `publish_up` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `publish_down` datetime DEFAULT NULL,
  `images` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `urls` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `attribs` varchar(5120) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `version` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '1',
  `ordering` int NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `metakey` text COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci,
  `metadesc` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `access` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `hits` int UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0',
  `metadata` mediumtext CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL,
  `featured` tinyint UNSIGNED NOT NULL DEFAULT '0' COMMENT 'Set if article is featured.',
  `language` char(7) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL COMMENT 'The language code for the article.',
  `note` varchar(255) CHARACTER SET utf8mb4 COLLATE utf8mb4_unicode_ci NOT NULL DEFAULT ''
) ENGINE=InnoDB DEFAULT CHARSET=utf8mb4 COLLATE=utf8mb4_unicode_ci;

--
-- Dumping data for table `lfuve_content`
--

INSERT INTO `lfuve_content` (`id`, `asset_id`, `title`, `alias`, `introtext`, `fulltext`, `state`, `catid`, `created`, `created_by`, `created_by_alias`, `modified`, `modified_by`, `checked_out`, `checked_out_time`, `publish_up`, `publish_down`, `images`, `urls`, `attribs`, `version`, `ordering`, `metakey`, `metadesc`, `access`, `hits`, `metadata`, `featured`, `language`, `note`) VALUES
(88, 175, 'MG Maestro T16 Turbo (LM10)', 'mg-maestro-turbo', '<p><strong>Targa Red MG Maestro T16 Turbo</strong><br><strong>Manufactured 1986</strong><br><strong>Purchased 1993</strong><br><strong>Sold 2000</strong></p>\r\n<p>I bought this car as an original MG Maestro 2.0 EFi in 1993 and, over time, tweaked it slightly! Yes, I know: \"But it\'s a Maestro!\" . However, by the time I sold it in 2000 it had a Rover 220 T16 Turbo engine under the bonnet along with a custom Torque Technique exhaust. This pushed out about 210 bhp, giving this Maestro a 140+ mph top speed and a sub 6.5 second 0 to 60 time. Combine this with uprated shocks and bushes plus lowered springs and you had one fast and nimble car!</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">{lightgallery type=local path=images/maestro_t16 previewWidth=200}{/lightgallery}</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Mechanicals\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Rover T16 2.0 Turbo engine<br>Torque Technique custom 2.5\" exhaust<br>Dump valve<br>Larkspeed uprated shocks and 1\" lowered springs<br>Moto-build uprated bushes<br>K&amp; N panel filter<br>Stainless steel air intake pipe<br>Steel braided brake hoses<br>Ferodo brake pads</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Trim\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Full Maestro Turbo body kit<br>KN Dyna 6.5\" alloys with Yoko 510s<br>New style MG badges and \'T16 Turbo\' decals<br>New style Montego dash, centre console and trim<br>Rover Metro GTi steering wheel<br>Rover Vitesse front Recaro seats<br>Electric windows and mirrors<br>Red leather gear and handbrake gaiters</p>\r\n<p>{/accordions}</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>', '', 1, '28', '2024-01-13 11:33:29', 465, '', '2024-01-15 05:06:07', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 11:33:29', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"images\\/resized\\/images\\/MG1_sm_130_90.jpg#joomlaImage:\\/\\/local-images\\/resized\\/images\\/MG1_sm_130_90.jpg?width=130&height=90\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":\"\",\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":\"\",\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":\"\",\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 5, 5, '', '', 1, 9, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(89, 176, 'Rover 220 Turbo Coupe (R8)', 'rover-220-turbo-coupe', '<p><strong>Tahiti blue Rover 220 Coupe Turbo</strong><br /><strong>Manufactured 1995 N</strong><br /><strong>UK registered 1998</strong><br /><strong>Purchased January 2000</strong><br /><strong>Written-off November 2002</strong></p>\r\n<p>The car was one of a consignment shipped to Japan but returned due to a flood onboard ship. Rover mothballed the Coupes until the end of the Coupe model range then registered them all. Mine had 8000 miles on the clock when I got it and only 16500 when it went. <img src=\"components/com_jce/editor/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/img/smiley-cry.gif\" data-alt=\"Cry\" title=\"Cry\" border=\"0\" /></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Kept completely standard except for a stainless steel Scorpion exhaust.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Purchased January 2000. Sadly \'written-off\' by \'White Van Man\' in November 2002.&nbsp;<img src=\"components/com_jce/editor/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/img/smiley-mad.gif\" alt=\"Mad\" title=\"Mad\" border=\"0\" /></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">{lightgallery type=local path=images/220_coupe previewWidth=200}{/lightgallery}</p>', '', 1, '28', '2024-01-13 11:39:35', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:44:00', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 11:39:35', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 4, '', '', 1, 8, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(90, 177, 'Nissan 200SX (S14)', 'nissan-200sx-s14', '<p align=\"left\"><strong>Marlin Blue Nissan 200SX (S14)</strong><br><strong>Manufactured 1995</strong><br><strong>Imported to UK from Cyprus 1998</strong><br><strong>Purchased December 2002</strong><br><strong>Sold May 2005</strong></p>\r\n<p><strong>Last power figures achieved at Interpro Automotive, Bristol - 19th December 2004.</strong></p>\r\n<p><strong><span style=\"color: red;\">285bhp (220bhp @ hub)</span></strong><span style=\"color: red;\">&nbsp;(320bhp projected)</span></p>\r\n<p><a href=\"images/interprorr/interpro_rr_1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" type=\"image\" class=\"jcepopup\" title=\"Interpro rolling road 19.12.2004\" data-mediabox-group=\"image\"><img src=\"images/interprorr/interpro_rr_1_sm.jpg\" alt=\"Interpro RR\"></a></p>\r\n<p>The sudden drop in power at the top of the curve was due to the first signs of detonation and backing-off boost slightly. The dotted green line shows a realistic projection of power now that the ignition has been slightly retarded at those high revs.<br><br><br alt=\"200sx brochure\" src=\"images/200sx_brochure.jpg\" height=\"234\" width=\"170\">{lightgallery type=local path=images/200sx previewWidth=200}{/lightgallery} &nbsp;</p>\r\n<div align=\"left\">&nbsp;</div>\r\n<div align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://download.jull.net/s14a_brochure.pdf\" rel=\"noopener\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" alt=\"200sx brochure\" src=\"images/200sx_brochure.jpg\" height=\"234\" width=\"170\"></a><span style=\"max-width: 170px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Original 200SX (S14a) brochure (7.8MB)</span></span></div>\r\n<div align=\"left\">&nbsp;</div>\r\n<div align=\"left\">&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Engine\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>A\'PEXi AVC-R<br>GReddy E-Manage<br>Pace Products charge cooler<br>JECS high-flowed 600cc injectors<br>Walbro GS-341 fuel pump<br>HKS adjustable actuator<br>Apex Performance stainless steel twin-box exhaust<br>Apex Performance front pipe<br>Danodesign de-cat<br>A\'PEXi Power Intake induction air filter<br>Bling! induction filter isolation box<br>Additional air feed from front scoop to behind headlamp<br>NGK Iridium IX spark plugs<br>AP Racing Organic Clutch<br>Blitz Dual DC turbo timer<br>Bling! stainless steel turbo to charge cooler pipe<br>Bling! stainless steel spark cover and Hammerited rocker cover</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Suspension\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Apex 35mm lowered springs</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Brakes\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Ferodo DS2500 front pads<br>Black Stuff rear pads<br>Red callipers</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Interior\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Autometer Ultra Lite boost gauge in an A-Pillar GReddy pod<br>Lockwood white dials<br>Lockwood stainless steel sill plates<br>Blaupunkt Woodstock DAB52 headunit<br>Rear soundproofing</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Exterior\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>350Z alloys<br>Toyo Proxes T1-S 225x40x18 front, 245x40x18 rear<br>Navan front grill<br>High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlights with uprated harness<br>Clear front and side indicator lenses<br>S15 Silvia bonnet emblem<br>Relocated 200SX boot emblem<br>Twin rear fog lights<br>Debricked with custom plate(UK number plate mount removed)<br>De-Nissaned</p>\r\n<p>{/accordions}</p>', '', 1, '28', '2024-01-13 11:43:58', 465, '', '2024-01-15 05:05:35', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 11:43:58', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"images\\/resized\\/images\\/200sx_sm_130_90.jpg#joomlaImage:\\/\\/local-images\\/resized\\/images\\/200sx_sm_130_90.jpg?width=130&height=90\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":\"\",\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":\"\",\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":\"\",\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 9, 3, '', '', 1, 12, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(91, 178, 'Toyota Hilux 4WD Pickup (YN65R)', 'toyota-hilux-pickup', '<p><strong>Red Toyota Hilux 2.0 4WD Pickup (YN65R/3Y)</strong><br /><strong>Manufactured April 1986</strong><br /><strong>Purchased November 2006</strong><br /><strong>Sold August 2008</strong></p>\r\n<p>{lightgallery type=local path=images/hilux_pickup previewWidth=200}{/lightgallery}</p>\r\n<p>Engine totally standard.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Modifications</p>\r\n<div align=\"left\">\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>SAAB 9000 Aero leather seats (electric and heated)</li>\r\n<li>Roughtrax A bar</li>\r\n<li>Roughtrax side bars</li>\r\n<li>Roughtrax stainless roll bar</li>\r\n<li>Roughtrax Scorpion 7x15 alloys</li>\r\n<li>Enduro 31x10.5/15 AT tyres</li>\r\n<li>Chrystal multi-reflector headlamps</li>\r\n<li>Stainless Baja Eagle Eye 6\" spot lamps</li>\r\n<li>Chromed 7\" Angel Eye spot lamps</li>\r\n<li>Hi/Lo High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps with uprated harness</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n</div>\r\n<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>', '', 1, '28', '2024-01-13 11:45:14', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:43:34', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 11:45:14', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 3, 2, '', '', 1, 5, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(92, 179, 'Toyota Hilux Surf SSR-G V6 (VZN185)', 'toyota-hilux-surf-ssrg-v6', '<p><strong>Toyota Hilux Surf SSR-G V6 (VZN185).</strong><br /><strong>Manufactured March 1996</strong><br /><strong>Imported to UK from Japan August 2004</strong><br /><strong>Purchased June 2008</strong><br /><strong>Imported to Finland from UK January 2010</strong><br /><strong>Sold July 2011</strong></p>\r\n<p>{lightgallery type=local path=images/hilux_surf previewWidth=200}{/lightgallery}</p>\r\n<p>3.4 litre V6 DOHC 24 valve<br />136kW @ 4800rpm, 294Nm @ 3600rpm</p>\r\n<p>SSR-G was the highest level specification for this model.</p>\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>Electronic control type 4 speed automatic (ECT)</li>\r\n<li>Multi-mode 4WD (2WD, normal 4WD, high and low range 4WD)</li>\r\n<li>Hard and soft suspension settings</li>\r\n<li>Ganador stainless-steel exhaust</li>\r\n<li>Rear spoiler with incorporated rear under mirror</li>\r\n<li>Rear window wiper</li>\r\n<li>Driver airbag</li>\r\n<li>Front passenger airbag</li>\r\n<li>Anti-lock braking system</li>\r\n<li>Manufacturer bull-bar</li>\r\n<li>Rear seat lap sash belt</li>\r\n<li>Side impact protection bars</li>\r\n<li>Power windows</li>\r\n<li>Power mirrors (retractable)</li>\r\n<li>Central door locking</li>\r\n<li>Electric tilt and slide sunroof</li>\r\n<li>Air conditioning</li>\r\n<li>Steering wheel height adjust</li>\r\n<li>Wood trim</li>\r\n<li>Alloy wheels (steel winter wheels)</li>\r\n<li>Tinted windows</li>\r\n<li>Window visors</li>\r\n<li>Field monitor (outside temperature, compass, barometer, altimeter &amp; relative altimeter)</li>\r\n<li>Wired for front fog lamps</li>\r\n<li>JVC KD-AVX44 El Chameleon headunit</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '28', '2024-01-13 11:46:33', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:43:25', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 11:46:33', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 3, 1, '', '', 1, 8, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(93, 180, 'Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero (S15)', 'nissan-silvia-spec-r-aero', '<p><strong>Brilliant Blue Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero (S15)</strong><br><strong>Manufactured April 1999</strong><br><strong>Imported to UK from Japan May 2005</strong><br><strong>Purchased June 2005</strong><br><strong>Sold August 2008</strong></p>\r\n<p>The S15 was the natural successor to the S14/a and was only sold to the Japanese, Australian, and New Zealand Domestic Markets. It was badged as the Silvia in Japan and NZ and the 200SX in Australia.</p>\r\n<p>Mine is the turbo Spec R with the Aero factory bodykit. Imported from Japan.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><strong><span style=\"color: red;\">277rwbhp@ (326bhp @ fly)<br></span></strong><strong><span style=\"color: red;\">286 lbft torque</span></strong><br><a href=\"images/janspeedrr/janspeed_rr_03122005.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" type=\"image\" class=\"jcepopup\" title=\"Janspeed rolling road 3.12.2005\" data-mediabox-group=\"image\"><img src=\"images/janspeedrr/janspeed_rr_03122005_sm.jpg\" alt=\"Janspeed RR\"></a></p>\r\n<p>{lightgallery type=local path=images/silvia previewWidth=200}{/lightgallery}</p>\r\n<p><strong>Video of ClearCorners headlight</strong></p>\r\n<p><iframe src=\"https://www.youtube.com/embed/IX4O92C054U?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\" allow=\"encrypted-media\" frameborder=\"0\" height=\"315\" width=\"560\"></iframe></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><a href=\"s15/s15_brochure.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"><img src=\"images/s15_brochure_sm.jpg\" alt=\"s15 brochure sm\"><br>Original New Zealand 200SX (S15) brochure</a></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Engine\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>HKS EVC V boost controller<br>Horsham Developments custom ECU mapping<br>GReddy Emanage (not currently mapping)<br>Nismo 740cc injectors<br>THS Performance tubular manifold<br>THS Performance stainless turbo elbow<br>THS Performance flexible stainless downpipe<br>CTP Products stainless decat<br>HKS Silent Hi-Power stainless exhaust<br>Apex Performance Front Mount Intercooler<br>Apex Performance stainless hotpipe<br>Z32 AFMWalbro fuel pump<br>A\'PEXi Power Intake induction air filter<br>HKS SSQV BOV (recirculated)<br>GReddy oil filter relocation kit<br>Apex Performance catch tank with 16mm braided lines<br>Denso IK24 sparks<br>Splitfire Super Direct Ignition System<br>GReddy oil cap<br>Vertex engine brace<br>Powder coated rocker cover</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Transmission\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Nismo Super Coppermix clutch and flywheel<br>Nismo big clutch slave cylinder<br>Nismo strengthened release fork pivot<br>APP braided clutch line<br>C\'s short shifter</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Suspension\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Apex Performance 32 way coilovers<br>Tein pillowball front tension roads<br>Cusco adjustable upper rear arms<br>Apex Performance rose-jointed rear toe arms<br>Whiteline anti-roll bars<br>Apex Performance subframe locking kit<br>APEX\'i front strut brace<br>Cusco rear strut brace</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Brakes\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Mercedes AMG 345mm front brake disc conversion<br>R32 GTR front calipersZ32 rear brake conversion<br>Z32 brake master cylinder<br>EBC Yellow Stuff larger front pads<br>EBC Red Stuff pads rear pads<br>Goodridge braided brake hoses<br>DOT 5.1 brake fluid</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Interior\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>JVC KD-AVX44 El Chameleon headunit<br>Defi-link BF oil temperature and pressure gauges<br>Charged Air Temperature gauge<br>TurboXS KnockLite</p>\r\n<p>{accordion title=\"Exterior\" open=\"false\"}</p>\r\n<p>Kei Racing HyperSilver D2 18 x 8.5 alloys<br>Toyo Proxes T1-R 235x40x18 front, 255x35x18 rear<br>Nissan OEM Aero front bumper<br>Nissan OEM rear bumper spats<br>Clearcorners LED headlight conversion<br>High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlights with uprated harness<br>Wisesquare LED tail lights<br>LED replacement bulbs inside and out<br>Cherished plate<br>Garage Defend carbon fibre cooling panel<br>Mini projector fog lamps<br>Nismo smoked side indicators</p>\r\n<p>{/accordions}</p>', '', 1, '28', '2024-01-13 11:47:55', 465, '', '2024-01-15 04:53:15', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 11:47:55', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":\"\",\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":\"\",\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":\"\",\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 13, 0, '', '', 1, 39, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(94, 181, 'Welcome to Jull Cars!', 'welcome-to-jull-cars', '<p>{multithumb popup_type=none}Everything is still here, just in a slightly different format.</p>\r\n<p>I have listened to feedback about the new site and have now altered the thumbnail images in my guides to full size images to make them simpler to follow and allow the guides to be printed.</p>\r\n<table border=\"0\">\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td>\r\n<p style=\"font-size: x-large;\"><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=34&amp;Itemid=53\"><img src=\"images/stories/s15_sm.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"Cars\" align=\"absmiddle\"></a></p>\r\n</td>\r\n<td>\r\n<p style=\"font-size: x-large;\"><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=35&amp;Itemid=55\"><img src=\"images/stories/egr1_sm.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"S14 Tech Guides\" align=\"absmiddle\"></a></p>\r\n</td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 50px;\" rowspan=\"4\">&nbsp;</td>\r\n<td rowspan=\"4\">\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http://www.s15oc.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img src=\"images/stories/silvia_logo.png\" border=\"0\" alt=\"S15 Owners Club\" width=\"62\" height=\"120\"></a></p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http://www.s15oc.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong>S15 Owners Club &amp; Forum</strong><br></a></p>\r\n</td>\r\n</tr>\r\n<tr align=\"center\" valign=\"top\">\r\n<td align=\"center\"><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=34&amp;Itemid=53\"><strong>Cars</strong></a></td>\r\n<td><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=35&amp;Itemid=55\"><strong> S14 Tech Guides</strong></a></td>\r\n</tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td>\r\n<p style=\"font-size: x-large;\"><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=36&amp;Itemid=56\"><img src=\"images/stories/z32_rear_brakes_sm.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"S14 &amp; S15 Tech Guides\" align=\"absmiddle\"></a></p>\r\n</td>\r\n<td>\r\n<p><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=37&amp;Itemid=57\"><img src=\"images/stories/c_shifter_30_sm.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"S15 Tech Guides\" align=\"absmiddle\"></a></p>\r\n</td>\r\n</tr>\r\n<tr align=\"center\" valign=\"top\">\r\n<td><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=36&amp;Itemid=56\"><strong>S14 &amp; S15 Tech Guides</strong></a></td>\r\n<td><a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=37&amp;Itemid=57\"><strong>S15 Tech Guides</strong></a></td>\r\n</tr>\r\n</tbody>\r\n</table>\r\n<p style=\"font-size: x-large;\" align=\"center\">&nbsp;</p>', '', -2, '27', '2024-01-13 12:05:35', 465, '', '2024-01-13 12:05:35', 0, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 12:05:35', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 1, 1, '', '', 1, 0, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');
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(95, 182, 'Privacy Policy', 'privacy-policy', '<h4>Privacy Policy</h4>\r\n<p>We are very delighted that you have shown interest in our enterprise. Data protection is of a particularly high priority for the management of Versatile Idea Oy. The use of the Internet pages of Versatile Idea Oy is possible without any indication of personal data; however, if a data subject wants to use special enterprise services via our website, processing of personal data could become necessary. If the processing of personal data is necessary and there is no statutory basis for such processing, we generally obtain consent from the data subject.</p>\r\n<p>The processing of personal data, such as the name, address, e-mail address, or telephone number of a data subject shall always be in line with the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), and in accordance with the country-specific data protection regulations applicable to Versatile Idea Oy. By means of this data protection declaration, our enterprise would like to inform the general public of the nature, scope, and purpose of the personal data we collect, use and process. Furthermore, data subjects are informed, by means of this data protection declaration, of the rights to which they are entitled.</p>\r\n<p>As the controller, Versatile Idea Oy has implemented numerous technical and organizational measures to ensure the most complete protection of personal data processed through this website. However, Internet-based data transmissions may in principle have security gaps, so absolute protection may not be guaranteed. For this reason, every data subject is free to transfer personal data to us via alternative means, e.g. by telephone.</p>\r\n<h4>1. Definitions</h4>\r\n<p>The data protection declaration of Versatile Idea Oy is based on the terms used by the European legislator for the adoption of the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR). Our data protection declaration should be legible and understandable for the general public, as well as our customers and business partners. To ensure this, we would like to first explain the terminology used.</p>\r\n<p>In this data protection declaration, we use, inter alia, the following terms:</p>\r\n<ul style=\"list-style: none;\">\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>a)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Personal data</h4>\r\n<p>Personal data means any information relating to an identified or identifiable natural person (“data subject”). An identifiable natural person is one who can be identified, directly or indirectly, in particular by reference to an identifier such as a name, an identification number, location data, an online identifier or to one or more factors specific to the physical, physiological, genetic, mental, economic, cultural or social identity of that natural person.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>b)&nbsp; &nbsp; Data subject</h4>\r\n<p>Data subject is any identified or identifiable natural person, whose personal data is processed by the controller responsible for the processing.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>c)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Processing</h4>\r\n<p>Processing is any operation or set of operations which is performed on personal data or on sets of personal data, whether or not by automated means, such as collection, recording, organisation, structuring, storage, adaptation or alteration, retrieval, consultation, use, disclosure by transmission, dissemination or otherwise making available, alignment or combination, restriction, erasure or destruction.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>d)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Restriction of processing</h4>\r\n<p>Restriction of processing is the marking of stored personal data with the aim of limiting their processing in the future.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>e)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Profiling</h4>\r\n<p>Profiling means any form of automated processing of personal data consisting of the use of personal data to evaluate certain personal aspects relating to a natural person, in particular to analyse or predict aspects concerning that natural person\'s performance at work, economic situation, health, personal preferences, interests, reliability, behaviour, location or movements.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>f)&nbsp; &nbsp; Pseudonymisation</h4>\r\n<p>Pseudonymisation is the processing of personal data in such a manner that the personal data can no longer be attributed to a specific data subject without the use of additional information, provided that such additional information is kept separately and is subject to technical and organisational measures to ensure that the personal data are not attributed to an identified or identifiable natural person.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>g)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Controller or controller responsible for the processing</h4>\r\n<p>Controller or controller responsible for the processing is the natural or legal person, public authority, agency or other body which, alone or jointly with others, determines the purposes and means of the processing of personal data; where the purposes and means of such processing are determined by Union or Member State law, the controller or the specific criteria for its nomination may be provided for by Union or Member State law.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>h)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Processor</h4>\r\n<p>Processor is a natural or legal person, public authority, agency or other body which processes personal data on behalf of the controller.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>i)&nbsp; &nbsp; Recipient</h4>\r\n<p>Recipient is a natural or legal person, public authority, agency or another body, to which the personal data are disclosed, whether a third party or not. However, public authorities which may receive personal data in the framework of a particular inquiry in accordance with Union or Member State law shall not be regarded as recipients; the processing of those data by those public authorities shall be in compliance with the applicable data protection rules according to the purposes of the processing.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>j)&nbsp; &nbsp; Third party</h4>\r\n<p>Third party is a natural or legal person, public authority, agency or body other than the data subject, controller, processor and persons who, under the direct authority of the controller or processor, are authorised to process personal data.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>k)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Consent</h4>\r\n<p>Consent of the data subject is any freely given, specific, informed and unambiguous indication of the data subject\'s wishes by which he or she, by a statement or by a clear affirmative action, signifies agreement to the processing of personal data relating to him or her.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>2. Name and Address of the controller</h4>\r\n<p>Controller for the purposes of the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), other data protection laws applicable in Member states of the European Union and other provisions related to data protection is:</p>\r\n<p>Versatile Idea Oy</p>\r\n<p>Hakaniemenranta 30 B 69</p>\r\n<p>00530 Helsinki</p>\r\n<p>Finland</p>\r\n<p>Email: info@versatile.fi</p>\r\n<p>Website: www.versatile.fi</p>\r\n<h4>3. Cookies</h4>\r\n<p>The Internet pages of Versatile Idea Oy use cookies. Cookies are text files that are stored in a computer system via an Internet browser.</p>\r\n<p>Many Internet sites and servers use cookies. Many cookies contain a so-called cookie ID. A cookie ID is a unique identifier of the cookie. It consists of a character string through which Internet pages and servers can be assigned to the specific Internet browser in which the cookie was stored. This allows visited Internet sites and servers to differentiate the individual browser of the dats subject from other Internet browsers that contain other cookies. A specific Internet browser can be recognized and identified using the unique cookie ID.</p>\r\n<p>Through the use of cookies, Versatile Idea Oy can provide the users of this website with more user-friendly services that would not be possible without the cookie setting.</p>\r\n<p>By means of a cookie, the information and offers on our website can be optimized with the user in mind. Cookies allow us, as previously mentioned, to recognize our website users. The purpose of this recognition is to make it easier for users to utilize our website. The website user that uses cookies, e.g. does not have to enter access data each time the website is accessed, because this is taken over by the website, and the cookie is thus stored on the user\'s computer system. Another example is the cookie of a shopping cart in an online shop. The online store remembers the articles that a customer has placed in the virtual shopping cart via a cookie.</p>\r\n<p>The data subject may, at any time, prevent the setting of cookies through our website by means of a corresponding setting of the Internet browser used, and may thus permanently deny the setting of cookies. Furthermore, already set cookies may be deleted at any time via an Internet browser or other software programs. This is possible in all popular Internet browsers. If the data subject deactivates the setting of cookies in the Internet browser used, not all functions of our website may be entirely usable.</p>\r\n<h4>4. Collection of general data and information</h4>\r\n<p>The website of Versatile Idea Oy collects a series of general data and information when a data subject or automated system calls up the website. This general data and information are stored in the server log files. Collected may be (1) the browser types and versions used, (2) the operating system used by the accessing system, (3) the website from which an accessing system reaches our website (so-called referrers), (4) the sub-websites, (5) the date and time of access to the Internet site, (6) an Internet protocol address (IP address), (7) the Internet service provider of the accessing system, and (8) any other similar data and information that may be used in the event of attacks on our information technology systems.</p>\r\n<p>When using these general data and information, Versatile Idea Oy does not draw any conclusions about the data subject. Rather, this information is needed to (1) deliver the content of our website correctly, (2) optimize the content of our website as well as its advertisement, (3) ensure the long-term viability of our information technology systems and website technology, and (4) provide law enforcement authorities with the information necessary for criminal prosecution in case of a cyber-attack. Therefore, Versatile Idea Oy analyzes anonymously collected data and information statistically, with the aim of increasing the data protection and data security of our enterprise, and to ensure an optimal level of protection for the personal data we process. The anonymous data of the server log files are stored separately from all personal data provided by a data subject.</p>\r\n<h4>5. Routine erasure and blocking of personal data</h4>\r\n<p>The data controller shall process and store the personal data of the data subject only for the period necessary to achieve the purpose of storage, or as far as this is granted by the European legislator or other legislators in laws or regulations to which the controller is subject to.</p>\r\n<p>If the storage purpose is not applicable, or if a storage period prescribed by the European legislator or another competent legislator expires, the personal data are routinely blocked or erased in accordance with legal requirements.</p>\r\n<h4>6. Rights of the data subject</h4>\r\n<ul style=\"list-style: none;\">\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>a) Right of confirmation</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator to obtain from the controller the confirmation as to whether or not personal data concerning him or her are being processed. If a data subject wishes to avail himself of this right of confirmation, he or she may, at any time, contact any employee of the controller.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>b) Right of access</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator to obtain from the controller free information about his or her personal data stored at any time and a copy of this information. Furthermore, the European directives and regulations grant the data subject access to the following information:</p>\r\n<ul style=\"list-style: none;\">\r\n<li>the purposes of the processing;</li>\r\n<li>the categories of personal data concerned;</li>\r\n<li>the recipients or categories of recipients to whom the personal data have been or will be disclosed, in particular recipients in third countries or international organisations;</li>\r\n<li>where possible, the envisaged period for which the personal data will be stored, or, if not possible, the criteria used to determine that period;</li>\r\n<li>the existence of the right to request from the controller rectification or erasure of personal data, or restriction of processing of personal data concerning the data subject, or to object to such processing;</li>\r\n<li>the existence of the right to lodge a complaint with a supervisory authority;</li>\r\n<li>where the personal data are not collected from the data subject, any available information as to their source;</li>\r\n<li>the existence of automated decision-making, including profiling, referred to in Article 22(1) and (4) of the GDPR and, at least in those cases, meaningful information about the logic involved, as well as the significance and envisaged consequences of such processing for the data subject.</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<p>Furthermore, the data subject shall have a right to obtain information as to whether personal data are transferred to a third country or to an international organisation. Where this is the case, the data subject shall have the right to be informed of the appropriate safeguards relating to the transfer.</p>\r\n<p>If a data subject wishes to avail himself of this right of access, he or she may, at any time, contact any employee of the controller.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>c) Right to rectification</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator to obtain from the controller without undue delay the rectification of inaccurate personal data concerning him or her. Taking into account the purposes of the processing, the data subject shall have the right to have incomplete personal data completed, including by means of providing a supplementary statement.</p>\r\n<p>If a data subject wishes to exercise this right to rectification, he or she may, at any time, contact any employee of the controller.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>d) Right to erasure (Right to be forgotten)</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator to obtain from the controller the erasure of personal data concerning him or her without undue delay, and the controller shall have the obligation to erase personal data without undue delay where one of the following grounds applies, as long as the processing is not necessary:</p>\r\n<ul style=\"list-style: none;\">\r\n<li>The personal data are no longer necessary in relation to the purposes for which they were collected or otherwise processed.</li>\r\n<li>The data subject withdraws consent to which the processing is based according to point (a) of Article 6(1) of the GDPR, or point (a) of Article 9(2) of the GDPR, and where there is no other legal ground for the processing.</li>\r\n<li>The data subject objects to the processing pursuant to Article 21(1) of the GDPR and there are no overriding legitimate grounds for the processing, or the data subject objects to the processing pursuant to Article 21(2) of the GDPR.</li>\r\n<li>The personal data have been unlawfully processed.</li>\r\n<li>The personal data must be erased for compliance with a legal obligation in Union or Member State law to which the controller is subject.</li>\r\n<li>The personal data have been collected in relation to the offer of information society services referred to in Article 8(1) of the GDPR.</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<p>If one of the aforementioned reasons applies, and a data subject wishes to request the erasure of personal data stored by Versatile Idea Oy, he or she may, at any time, contact any employee of the controller. An employee of Versatile Idea Oy shall promptly ensure that the erasure request is complied with immediately.</p>\r\n<p>Where the controller has made personal data public and is obliged pursuant to Article 17(1) to erase the personal data, the controller, taking account of available technology and the cost of implementation, shall take reasonable steps, including technical measures, to inform other controllers processing the personal data that the data subject has requested erasure by such controllers of any links to, or copy or replication of, those personal data, as far as processing is not required. An employees of Versatile Idea Oy will arrange the necessary measures in individual cases.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>e) Right of restriction of processing</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator to obtain from the controller restriction of processing where one of the following applies:</p>\r\n<ul style=\"list-style: none;\">\r\n<li>The accuracy of the personal data is contested by the data subject, for a period enabling the controller to verify the accuracy of the personal data.</li>\r\n<li>The processing is unlawful and the data subject opposes the erasure of the personal data and requests instead the restriction of their use instead.</li>\r\n<li>The controller no longer needs the personal data for the purposes of the processing, but they are required by the data subject for the establishment, exercise or defence of legal claims.</li>\r\n<li>The data subject has objected to processing pursuant to Article 21(1) of the GDPR pending the verification whether the legitimate grounds of the controller override those of the data subject.</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<p>If one of the aforementioned conditions is met, and a data subject wishes to request the restriction of the processing of personal data stored by Versatile Idea Oy, he or she may at any time contact any employee of the controller. The employee of Versatile Idea Oy will arrange the restriction of the processing.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>f) Right to data portability</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator, to receive the personal data concerning him or her, which was provided to a controller, in a structured, commonly used and machine-readable format. He or she shall have the right to transmit those data to another controller without hindrance from the controller to which the personal data have been provided, as long as the processing is based on consent pursuant to point (a) of Article 6(1) of the GDPR or point (a) of Article 9(2) of the GDPR, or on a contract pursuant to point (b) of Article 6(1) of the GDPR, and the processing is carried out by automated means, as long as the processing is not necessary for the performance of a task carried out in the public interest or in the exercise of official authority vested in the controller.</p>\r\n<p>Furthermore, in exercising his or her right to data portability pursuant to Article 20(1) of the GDPR, the data subject shall have the right to have personal data transmitted directly from one controller to another, where technically feasible and when doing so does not adversely affect the rights and freedoms of others.</p>\r\n<p>In order to assert the right to data portability, the data subject may at any time contact any employee of Versatile Idea Oy.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>g) Right to object</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator to object, on grounds relating to his or her particular situation, at any time, to processing of personal data concerning him or her, which is based on point (e) or (f) of Article 6(1) of the GDPR. This also applies to profiling based on these provisions.</p>\r\n<p>The Versatile Idea Oy shall no longer process the personal data in the event of the objection, unless we can demonstrate compelling legitimate grounds for the processing which override the interests, rights and freedoms of the data subject, or for the establishment, exercise or defence of legal claims.</p>\r\n<p>If Versatile Idea Oy processes personal data for direct marketing purposes, the data subject shall have the right to object at any time to processing of personal data concerning him or her for such marketing. This applies to profiling to the extent that it is related to such direct marketing. If the data subject objects to Versatile Idea Oy to the processing for direct marketing purposes, Versatile Idea Oy will no longer process the personal data for these purposes.</p>\r\n<p>In addition, the data subject has the right, on grounds relating to his or her particular situation, to object to processing of personal data concerning him or her by Versatile Idea Oy for scientific or historical research purposes, or for statistical purposes pursuant to Article 89(1) of the GDPR, unless the processing is necessary for the performance of a task carried out for reasons of public interest.</p>\r\n<p>In order to exercise the right to object, the data subject may contact any employee of Versatile Idea Oy. In addition, the data subject is free in the context of the use of information society services, and notwithstanding Directive 2002/58/EC, to use his or her right to object by automated means using technical specifications.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>h) Automated individual decision-making, including profiling</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator not to be subject to a decision based solely on automated processing, including profiling, which produces legal effects concerning him or her, or similarly significantly affects him or her, as long as the decision (1) is not is necessary for entering into, or the performance of, a contract between the data subject and a data controller, or (2) is not authorised by Union or Member State law to which the controller is subject and which also lays down suitable measures to safeguard the data subject\'s rights and freedoms and legitimate interests, or (3) is not based on the data subject\'s explicit consent.</p>\r\n<p>If the decision (1) is necessary for entering into, or the performance of, a contract between the data subject and a data controller, or (2) it is based on the data subject\'s explicit consent, Versatile Idea Oy shall implement suitable measures to safeguard the data subject\'s rights and freedoms and legitimate interests, at least the right to obtain human intervention on the part of the controller, to express his or her point of view and contest the decision.</p>\r\n<p>If the data subject wishes to exercise the rights concerning automated individual decision-making, he or she may, at any time, contact any employee of Versatile Idea Oy.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<h4>i) Right to withdraw data protection consent</h4>\r\n<p>Each data subject shall have the right granted by the European legislator to withdraw his or her consent to processing of his or her personal data at any time.</p>\r\n<p>If the data subject wishes to exercise the right to withdraw the consent, he or she may, at any time, contact any employee of Versatile Idea Oy.</p>\r\n</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>7. Data protection provisions about the application and use of Matomo</h4>\r\n<p>On this website, the controller has integrated the Matomo component. Matomo is an open-source software tool for web analysis. Web analysis is the collection, gathering and evaluation of data on the behavior of visitors from Internet sites. A web analysis tool collects, inter alia, data on the website from which a data subject came to a website (so-called referrer), which pages of the website were accessed or how often and for which period of time a sub-page was viewed. A web analysis is mainly used for the optimization of a website and the cost-benefit analysis of Internet advertising.</p>\r\n<p>The software is operated on the server of the controller, the data protection-sensitive log files are stored exclusively on this server.</p>\r\n<p>The purpose of the Matomo component is the analysis of the visitor flows on our website. The controller uses the obtained data and information, inter alia, to evaluate the use of this website in order to compile online reports, which show the activities on our Internet pages.</p>\r\n<p>Matomo sets a cookie on the information technology system of the data subject. The definition of cookies is explained above. With the setting of the cookie, an analysis of the use of our website is enabled. With each call-up to one of the individual pages of this website, the Internet browser on the information technology system of the data subject is automatically through the Matomo component prompted to submit data for the purpose of online analysis to our server. During the course of this technical procedure, we obtain knowledge about personal information, such as the IP address of the data subject, which serves to understand the origin of visitors and clicks.</p>\r\n<p>The cookie is used to store personal information, such as the access time, the location from which access was made, and the frequency of visits to our website. With each visit of our Internet pages, these personal data, including the IP address of the Internet access used by the data subject, are transferred to our server. These personal data will be stored by us. We do not forward this personal data to third parties.</p>\r\n<p>The data subject may, as stated above, prevent the setting of cookies through our website at any time by means of a corresponding adjustment of the web browser used and thus permanently deny the setting of cookies. Such an adjustment to the used Internet browser would also prevent Matomo from setting a cookie on the information technology system of the data subject. In addition, cookies already in use by Matomo may be deleted at any time via a web browser or other software programs.</p>\r\n<p>In addition, the data subject has the possibility of objecting to a collection of data relating to a use of this Internet site that are generated by Matomo as well as the processing of these data by Matomo and the chance to preclude any such. For this, the data subject must set a \"Do Not Track\" option in the browser.</p>\r\n<p>With each setting of the opt-out cookie, however, there is the possibility that the websites of the controller are no longer fully usable for the data subject.</p>\r\n<p>Further information and the applicable data protection provisions of Matomo may be retrieved under https://matomo.org/privacy/.</p>\r\n<h4>8. Legal basis for the processing</h4>\r\n<p>Art. 6(1) lit. a GDPR serves as the legal basis for processing operations for which we obtain consent for a specific processing purpose. If the processing of personal data is necessary for the performance of a contract to which the data subject is party, as is the case, for example, when processing operations are necessary for the supply of goods or to provide any other service, the processing is based on Article 6(1) lit. b GDPR. The same applies to such processing operations which are necessary for carrying out pre-contractual measures, for example in the case of inquiries concerning our products or services. Is our company subject to a legal obligation by which processing of personal data is required, such as for the fulfillment of tax obligations, the processing is based on Art. 6(1) lit. c GDPR. In rare cases, the processing of personal data may be necessary to protect the vital interests of the data subject or of another natural person. This would be the case, for example, if a visitor were injured in our company and his name, age, health insurance data or other vital information would have to be passed on to a doctor, hospital or other third party. Then the processing would be based on Art. 6(1) lit. d GDPR. Finally, processing operations could be based on Article 6(1) lit. f GDPR. This legal basis is used for processing operations which are not covered by any of the abovementioned legal grounds, if processing is necessary for the purposes of the legitimate interests pursued by our company or by a third party, except where such interests are overridden by the interests or fundamental rights and freedoms of the data subject which require protection of personal data. Such processing operations are particularly permissible because they have been specifically mentioned by the European legislator. He considered that a legitimate interest could be assumed if the data subject is a client of the controller (Recital 47 Sentence 2 GDPR).</p>\r\n<h4>9. The legitimate interests pursued by the controller or by a third party</h4>\r\n<p>Where the processing of personal data is based on Article 6(1) lit. f GDPR our legitimate interest is to carry out our business in favor of the well-being of all our employees and the shareholders.</p>\r\n<h4>10. Period for which the personal data will be stored</h4>\r\n<p>The criteria used to determine the period of storage of personal data is the respective statutory retention period. After expiration of that period, the corresponding data is routinely deleted, as long as it is no longer necessary for the fulfillment of the contract or the initiation of a contract.</p>\r\n<h4>11. Provision of personal data as statutory or contractual requirement; Requirement necessary to enter into a contract; Obligation of the data subject to provide the personal data; possible consequences of failure to provide such data</h4>\r\n<p>We clarify that the provision of personal data is partly required by law (e.g. tax regulations) or can also result from contractual provisions (e.g. information on the contractual partner). Sometimes it may be necessary to conclude a contract that the data subject provides us with personal data, which must subsequently be processed by us. The data subject is, for example, obliged to provide us with personal data when our company signs a contract with him or her. The non-provision of the personal data would have the consequence that the contract with the data subject could not be concluded. Before personal data is provided by the data subject, the data subject must contact any employee. The employee clarifies to the data subject whether the provision of the personal data is required by law or contract or is necessary for the conclusion of the contract, whether there is an obligation to provide the personal data and the consequences of non-provision of the personal data.</p>\r\n<h4>12. Existence of automated decision-making</h4>\r\n<p>As a responsible company, we do not use automatic decision-making or profiling.</p>\r\n<p>This Privacy Policy has been generated by the Privacy Policy Generator of the <a href=\"https://dg-datenschutz.de/services/external-data-protection-officer/?lang=en\">External Data Protection Officers</a> that was developed in cooperation with the <a href=\"https://www.wbs-law.de/eng/practice-areas/media-law/\">Media Law Lawyers</a> from WBS-LAW.</p>', '', 1, '33', '2024-01-13 12:06:20', 465, '', '2024-01-15 03:20:38', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-13 12:06:20', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 0, '', '', 1, 0, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(96, 183, 'Block the EGR valve', 'block-the-egr-valve', '<p>The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve and EGR Control Valve (EGRC-BPT) were fitted on S14s only to reduce exhaust emissions and not much else. They do, however, have the nasty side effect of causing a noticeable power hesitation at 2300-2500 rpm.</p>\r\n<p>The EGR and EGRC-BPT can be disabled very easily to eliminate this hesitation and have no ill effects on the rest of the engine. In fact, these valves were left off the S14a and S15. Their removal should have no effect on your MoT emissions testing.</p>\r\n<p>A number of people have completely removed the EGR circuit from the engine. This is more complex and doesn\'t achieve anything extra except tidy the engine bay a bit more.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>First, locate the EGRC-BPT and EGR valves. They are fitted between the bulkhead and plenum. Remove the pipe arrowed on the EGRC-BPT (Figures 1 &amp; 2).</p>\r\n<p><br /><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin: auto;\" alt=\"EGR location\" src=\"images/guides/egr_location.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 100px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><br /><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin: auto;\" alt=\"The pipe in question\" src=\"images/guides/egr1.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 100px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Block the pipe with an appropriately sized bolt or screw and tuck the pipe out of the way.</p>\r\n<p><br /><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin: auto;\" alt=\"Block the pipe\" src=\"images/guides/egr2.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 100px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Yes, that\'s it! No more irritating hesitation.</p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:39:43', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:42:42', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:39:43', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 7, '', '', 1, 6, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(97, 184, 'Rear soundproofing', 'rear-soundproofing', '<p>Ever thought how loud the road noise is coming from the back of your S14? There is a very good reason for this: when Nissan were thinking of ways to save money on this car, they discovered two massive gaps they could avoid soundproofing. By dealing with these, the amount of road noise is quite dramatically reduced.</p>\r\n<p>You need to access the void above the rear wheel arches. To do this, the back seat need removing. You will need 10, 12 and 14mm sockets and a flat-head screwdriver.</p>\r\n<p>In addition, you will need to buy some loft insulation and packaging tape. The best sort is is in a plastic liner, to avoid touching the fibreglass and getting it everywhere (Figure 1). You can pick up a 10 metre roll most DIY stores.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/insulation.jpg\" alt=\"Insulation\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Insulation</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>First, release the seat back and undo the four 10mm bolts holding it to the hinge mounting (Figure 2).</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/back_seat1.jpg\" alt=\"Back Seat 1\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Remove the seat back completely (Figure 3).</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/back_seat2.jpg\" alt=\"Back Seat 2\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>At the base of the back seat are two grey plastic covers. Carefully remove these with the screwdriver (Figure 4). Undo the 12mm bolts.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/back_seat3.jpg\" alt=\"Back Seat 3\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Remove the seat bottom completely (Figure 5).</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/back_seat4.jpg\" alt=\"Back Seat 4\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Carefully remove one side trim panel. It is held on by poppers around the front edge, one locking popper at the back edge and the hinged mount (14mm bolt). You will now see the area that needs dealing with. A positive resonance chamber! (Figure 6).</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/cavity.jpg\" alt=\"Cavity\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Cavity</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Cut the insulation into two 1.5 metre lengths. Seal the plastic liner with packaging tape. Roll insulation and pack it into the void as in Figure 7. Make sure it fills the space well if not, add more. You can now put the trim panel back. Beware at this point that there are three mounting points on the trim that slide onto the three poppers marked in red on Figure 7. You may find it easier to remove these first and put them on the trim before fitting it. Unfortunately, they aren\'t easy to remove. Now repeat for the other trim.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/cavity_stuffed.jpg\" alt=\"Cavity Insulation!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Cavity Insulation!</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">When done, fit the seat bottom, then the top.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Hey presto! Enjoy the silence!</p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:40:09', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:42:35', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:40:09', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 6, '', '', 1, 2, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');
INSERT INTO `lfuve_content` (`id`, `asset_id`, `title`, `alias`, `introtext`, `fulltext`, `state`, `catid`, `created`, `created_by`, `created_by_alias`, `modified`, `modified_by`, `checked_out`, `checked_out_time`, `publish_up`, `publish_down`, `images`, `urls`, `attribs`, `version`, `ordering`, `metakey`, `metadesc`, `access`, `hits`, `metadata`, `featured`, `language`, `note`) VALUES
(98, 185, 'Changing headlight bulbs (the easy way)', 'changing-headlight-bulbs-the-easy-way', '<p align=\"left\">To the uninitiated, changing an S14 headlight bulb may seem a simple job. How wrong they would be!<br /><br />Access to the back of the headlight units is so restrictive (especially on the battery side) that you would find yourself fiddling about for up to an hour blindly trying to get your fingers into very difficult spaces. Note that access to the S14a headlights is much better.</p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">I have read via a US forum that many people think this guide is pointless and that the bulbs can be changed easily without removing anything. The bulkhead clearance may be more generous for models fitted with the US KA24 engine as opposed to the SR20, so if you can do this, great. For those with SR20s without Japanese or Donald Trump hands, this guide is a piece of piss and much faster. Until you do it, you won\'t actually understand.&nbsp;It is also interesting to reflect that this process was shown to me by someone at a Nissan dealership. Where time is money, you need to ask why they do this if it\'s unecessary<span style=\"text-align: justify;\">&nbsp;and much faster with them in place</span>...?&nbsp;😉</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The solution is very simple: remove the headlight unit! This seems quite extreme but is, in fact, a five minute job and is by far the most efficient way to change these bulbs.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">There are three important sections to the front lighting system. The sidelights, the H4 main/dip beam lights and the H3 main beam spots.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You need a crosshead screwdriver and a 10mm socket for all the following steps.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">First, you need to remove the sidelight unit. Remove the screw arrowed in Figure 1. The unit is held in a ball socket behind it\'s front bottom edge. Push the unit straight forward to pop it out. It will hang freely against the bumper.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/bulbs1.jpg\" alt=\"Remove side light\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Remove side light</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Next, the grill has to be removed. Undo the two plastic screw clips shown in Figure 2 and remove. The grill will need to be pulled very firmly and evenly upwards to release it from its bumper mounts.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/bulbs2.jpg\" alt=\"Remove grill\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Remove grill</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Remove the two side nuts shown in Figure 3 and the two front bolts in Figure 4.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/bulbs3.jpg\" alt=\"Remove side nuts\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Remove side nuts</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/bulbs4.jpg\" alt=\"Remove front bolts\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Remove front bolts</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The whole unit can now be removed by pulling it towards the grill and then lifting out (Figure 5). There will be enough wiring to allow the unit to be turned to gain top access to the rear of the bulbs (Figure 6).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/bulbs5.jpg\" alt=\"Remove headlight unit\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Remove headlight unit</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/bulbs6.jpg\" alt=\"Remove seal lock, connector and seals\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Remove seal lock, connector and seals</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The next instructions are specific to the S14. S14a bulb fittings are different and the bulbs are H1s. However, having got this far, the actual bulb changing is fairly obvious.<br /><br />In Figure 7 the left bulb is a H4 and the right a H3. To gain access to the H4, remove the rubber wiring connector, twist the plastic seal lock off, then remove the rubber seal. For the H3, twist the plastic seal lock off, then remove the rubber seal.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/bulbs7.jpg\" alt=\"The bulbs\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - The bulbs</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You will now see the bulbs! (Figure 8) Pinch the wire retainers inwards to release the bulbs. Be careful not to lose the H4 retainer! The H3 bulb uses a spade connector, which will need disconnecting before removing it.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/bulbs8.jpg\" alt=\"Replace bulb\" style=\"font-size: 9px; line-height: 13px; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" width=\"100%\" height=\"NaN\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Replace bulb</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">H4: replace your bulb, fasten the retaining wire, replace the rubber seal and lock, then plug the rubber connector back on.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">H3: replace bulb, fasten retaining clip, reconnect spade connector and replace rubber seal and lock.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">That\'s it! Just carefully position the unit back it place, tighten the side nuts and front bolts, push the sidelight unit into its ball socket and replace the crosshead screw. Replace the grill.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">This seems a lot to do. Its not. It will seriously take ten minutes the first time and five thereafter. More importantly, you won\'t damage the unit, bulbs, seals or your hands!</p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:40:34', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:42:26', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:40:34', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 3, 5, '', '', 1, 3, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(99, 186, 'De-bricking', 'de-bricking', '<p>In the UK, many owners of Japanese cars are afflicted by huge front bumper \'bricks\' for mounting standard length number plates on. If the car was designed without a \'brick\', its never going to look good with one! This can be easily rectified by \'de-bricking\' or removing the plate mount.</p>\r\n<p>If you are going to do this modification, make sure you have the replacement plate first! Obvious, I know, but in all the excitement...<img src=\"images/smilies/rolleyes.gif\" alt=\"rolleyes\" height=\"15\" width=\"15\" /> The new plate is going to have to be a double-line style similar to those fitted on offroaders. Dimension details can be found below. You will also need a Phillips screwdriver and mounting screws or pads (if not provided with your new plate).</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><strong><span color=\"red\" style=\"color: red;\">IMPORTANT!</span></strong><br />UK Number plates must conform to specific regulations. If your plates do not conform, you may be stopped by police and penalised. An outline of the guidelines can be seen <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong><a href=\"http://www.ukspeedtraps.co.uk/plates.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">here</a></strong></span>. If outside the UK, you would be advised to check the regulations in your own country.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>First, remove the existing plate. It will either be screw mounted or held by sticky pads.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/debrick1.jpg\" alt=\"Offensive brick in place!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Offensive brick in place!</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>You are presented with two bolt screws. Unscrew them and remove the \'brick\'.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/debrick2.jpg\" alt=\"Ahh, that\'s how it\'s held on...\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Ahh, that\'s how it\'s held on...</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Remove the two screw clips and clean all the surrounding paintwork with the relevant T-Cut. You may find that the \'brick\' has permanently scored the paintwork. Don\'t worry too much. It still looks better than with the \'brick\'!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/debrick3.jpg\" alt=\"Small, isn\'t it?\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Small, isn\'t it?</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Finally, fit your new plate. My plate is 310mm x 160mm. It has to be less than 320mm wide to fit the mount. The height is entirely up to you, however, bear in mind that to meet UK regulations, they must be about 200mm. That\'s all I\'m saying.</p>\r\n<p>A good place to buy a custom number plate is&nbsp;<a href=\"http://www.fancyplates.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fancyplates</a>. You can order online and receive the plate, including mounting screws and pads, within a few days.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/debrick4.jpg\" alt=\"Doesn\'t that look better?\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Doesn\'t that look better?</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:40:56', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:42:09', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:40:56', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 4, '', '', 1, 2, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(100, 187, 'Re-badging', 're-badging', '<p align=\"left\">A lot of people like to make their S14 a bit more anonymous by de-badging it. This is fine, however, when the Nissan badge is removed from the bonnet, you are left with two locator pin holes to fill somehow. This is why I preferred the replace the badge with an alternative.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">There are many choices but I liked the S15 Silvia badge. These are rather difficult to get hold of and, as a result, you can land-up paying a fortune for one. Luckily my contacts in Australia came to the rescue and picked one up from a local Nissan dealer (thanks Dad!). A very reasonable £15.60 equivalent.</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><strong>Fitting the badge</strong></p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">You will need some boiling water, fishing line or strong nylon thread, fingernails, polish and a lot of elbow grease. Oh, and the new badge!</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">Pour the boiling water all over and round the old badge to soften its adhesive. Use the fishing line or thread to cut through the adhesive under the badge edges. There are two locator pins, one under the first S and the other under the A. Once you have cut the adhesive as much as possible, carefully lift the badge edges. The badge should lift off.</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/badge1.jpg\" alt=\"Nissan badge\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1</span></span></p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">You will be left with a scene of devastation as in Figure 2. This is where the fingernails come into play! Carefully peel all the adhesive from the paintwork. If you rush it, you may damage the paint. Try not to scratch the paint with your nails. Once you have removed as much adhesive as possible, you have to polish the rest out. This will take a while!</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/badge2.jpg\" alt=\"Badge removed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2</span></span></p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">After all the frenzied polishing, you will have a nice clean, shiny surface! (Figure 3) You can clearly see the two offending pin holes.</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/badge3.jpg\" alt=\"Clean surface!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3</span></span></p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">If using an S15 Silvia badge like mine, you will have to cut the single pin off the back. Ensure the paintwork is completely spotless. For best results do the following when the bonnet is hot. Remove the badge backing and carefully align the badge so that it covers both pin holes. Alignment needs to be taken from the red S, NOT the silver S. In other words, ensure that the horizontal part of the red S is parallel with the front of the bonnet. If using an S14 Silvia badge it will have two pins and be much simpler!</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/badge4.jpg\" alt=\"S15 Silvia badge\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4</span></span></p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/badge5.jpg\" alt=\"S15 Silvia badge\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5</span></span></p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">&nbsp;A nice touch (for an S14) is to move the rear 200SX badge down between the light clusters. It moves the focus away from the lights themselves.</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/rear_badge.jpg\" alt=\"Rear 200SX badge\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Rear 200SX badge</span></span></p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:41:14', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:41:55', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:41:14', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 3, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(101, 188, 'Mesh the air scoop', 'mesh-the-air-scoop', '<p align=\"left\">Have you noticed how exposed your radiator is behind the front bumper air scoop? All it takes is a piece of gravel or debris to be thrown up by something in front and a bit of bad luck and you will have a punctured radiator. If you fitted an expensive Front Mounted Intercooler, it is even more a risk. I decided to see what I could do about this.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Things you will need in advance are a piece of mesh large enough to fit the scoop (the S14a scoop is bigger than the S14), some 100mm strips of metal wire, and bonding compound. The mesh I initially used was aluminium. I would strongly advise against this as it deteriorates and forms white rust. The mesh I now have is stainless steel \'MG type\' diamond pattern, which I bought from my local Halfords. You will also need a cutting knife (or thin hacksaw blade), some wire cutters and a 10mm socket.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Undo the engine undertray before starting as this give much better access to the air scoop.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/mesh1.jpg\" alt=\"View before\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">On an S14 you will need to remove the cross-members in the scoop. Use a cutting knife or hacksaw blade, and cut carefully. It is far too easy to slip and scrape the bumper.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/mesh2.jpg\" alt=\"The scoop braces\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">With the cross-members removed (Figure 3) you can touch up the plastic that you cut away if you wish. On a darker coloured bumper it isn\'t that noticeable. Take this opportunity to thoroughly T-cut the scoop.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/mesh3.jpg\" alt=\"Braces removed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Cut out a piece of mesh bigger than the scoop and try it for size by feeding it in from underneath. The mesh will probably need several trimmings before its the right size.<br /><br />I initially bonded the mesh to the bumper. This is a very fiddly process and is a right pain if you want to change the mesh later (which I did!). What I did second time around was use strips of wire which I stuck to the hidden inside edge of the scoop using bonding compound. This allowed the mesh to be added and removed easily by simply twisting the wire when in place.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/mesh4.jpg\" alt=\"Mesh ready for fitting\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">I had plenty of mesh left to replace the stuff in my Navan grille too.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/mesh5.jpg\" alt=\"Mesh up close\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Judging by the amount of debris I now collect in the scoop each week, I know I made the right decision to fit the mesh. It also makes the front look more aggressive.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/mesh6.jpg\" alt=\"Cool!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6</span></span></p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:41:38', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:41:47', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:41:38', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 2, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(102, 189, 'Fitting white dials', 'fitting-white-dials', '<p align=\"left\">Fancy giving your instrument pod a bit more of a sports look? Fitting a set of white dials can transform the look of your dash and lighten a dark interior (if only marginally!).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">I obtained a set of newly designed Lockwood white dials from <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"><a href=\"http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apex Performance</a></span></strong></span>. There are sets for the S14 and S14a and they are also available in silver. The instructions that are supplied have been written specifically for the S14/a and are very comprehensive. There would be little point in repeating them, so I have scanned them and they can be found here:</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"><a href=\"http://download.jull.net/fitting_s14_dials.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lockwood guidelines for fitting S14/a white dials</a></span></strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong></strong>Please use the instructions in conjunction with my photos to help visualise.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/dials1.jpg\" alt=\"Pod removed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Remove the instrument pod</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/dials3.jpg\" alt=\"Shroud removed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Remove the black shroud</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/dials4.jpg\" alt=\"Lockwood dials\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Lockwood\'s dial set</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/dials5.jpg\" alt=\"Remove dials\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Cut the dial in half to allow removal around the needle</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/dials6.jpg\" alt=\"New dials\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Re-assemble</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/dials7.jpg\" alt=\"In place!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">New look pod in place</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:41:58', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:41:41', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:41:58', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 1, '', '', 1, 2, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(103, 190, 'Twin rear fog lamps', 'twin-rear-fog-lamps', '<p align=\"left\">Euro spec S14s come fitted with a rear bumper insert for the Euro size numbers plates and fog lamps. In another bizzare display of penny pinching, Nissan only fitted one working fog lamp. The other is a blanking unit. This as all fine and dandy until you need to turn your fogs on and start receiving the \'one of your fogs is out, mate\' comments. It also looks unbalanced.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Luckily Nissan makes fully working units for both sides due to the LHD and RHD markets. You can order a LHD fog lamp from your local dealer using part number 26585-74F10. The unit comes with an electrical connector, but no matching loom connector, so you will either have to buy that separately, acquire one from a scrap yard or, as I did, piggyback the electrics to the existing unit.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/rear_fogs1.jpg\" alt=\"Existing fog lamps\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">The existing units</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/rear_fogs2.jpg\" alt=\"LH unit in place\" style=\"font-size: 11px;\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">LHD unit in place</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span class=\"wf_caption\" style=\"display: inline-table;\"><img src=\"images/guides/rear_fogs3.jpg\" alt=\"Oh yeah!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">That looks better!&nbsp;<img src=\"images/smilies/thumbs_up.gif\" alt=\"thumbs up\" height=\"18\" width=\"25\" /></span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '30', '2024-01-15 01:42:20', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:41:34', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:42:20', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 0, '', '', 1, 2, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(104, 191, 'Fitting a boost valve', 'fitting-a-boost-valve', '<p>Boost valve or Free Boost Upgrade? Which is best?</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Figure 1 will help you locate where the boost will need attaching, along with the relevant pipes.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/boost_valve_plumb.jpg\" data-alt=\"Boost valve plumbing\" style=\"width: 100%; margin: auto;\" /><span style=\"max-width: 1242px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Boost valve plumbing</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The red arrow in Figure 2 indicates the pipe which contains an inbuilt restrictor to control the amount of boost produced by the turbo. There are two options to achieve a huge power gain. The first is known as a Free Boost Upgrade (FBU) due to it costing virtually nothing. The restrictor pipe simply needs replacing with a normal pipe. This modification must be run in conjunction with a boost gauge due to the boost pressure being totally unrestricted. Too much boost (say, over 15 psi/1 bar) would make the turbo very susceptible to power spikes which could permanently damage it. This makes the second choice a much safer option.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/fbu.jpg\" alt=\"Restricter Pipe\" style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; line-height: 16px; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 450px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Restrictor Pipe</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>A much more controlled option is to fit a boost (or bleed) valve (this particular one is an Apex Performance boost valve). It is a good idea to fit a boost gauge in this instance too. However it is not necessary, so long as you have a means to accurately measure boost (such as a Rolling Road session). Remove the T connector joining the restrictor pipe to the other two pipes shown in Figure 2. The restrictor pipe needs blocking using something suitable (a pencil is good!). Adjust the boost valve so that it is about half open then insert it between the other two pipes, as shown in Figure 3. It is best not to run boost higher than 15 psi/1 bar without upgrading other components. If the boost is too high it is quite likely that the engine will encounter fuel cut-out.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/boost_valve.jpg\" alt=\"Boost Valve\" style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; line-height: 16px; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Boost Valve</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>It is recommended that you upgrade your spark plugs to a colder rating such as 7 or 8.<br /><br />I gained an additional 24 bhp from this modification, bringing my S14 200SX in line with the Japanese spec 220 bhp version.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:44:00', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:33:03', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:44:00', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 4, 13, '', '', 1, 25, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(105, 192, 'Fitting a boost gauge', 'fitting-a-boost-gauge', '<p>Fitting a boost gauge is a relatively simple task when you know where and what to look for. It is more fiddly than difficult. I have provided a number of photos to assist in the fitting of a gauge into a A-Pillar GReddy mounting pod.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Use Figure 1 to help you decide where to connect the boost gauge\'s vacuum pipe. There are two usual locations: one in the actuating pipe going to the recirculation valve, the other in the plenum to pressure regulator pipe. The actuating pipe is the easiest to connect, but the pressure regulator pipe is less likely to be disturbed in the future. My gauge is connected to the pressure regulator pipe, and my turbo timer to the actuating pipe. Photos of both are below.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/boost_vacuum_tconnect.jpg\" alt=\"Boost hose arrangement\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 685px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Boost hose arrangement</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Plenum to pressure regulator</p>\r\n<p>With your boost gauge you should have been supplied a T connector and small pipe to join the gauge tube into an engine pressure pipe. You need to locate a small pipe running between the silver plenum and the engine block. Looking at Figure 2 you will see that it connects to the plenum (1) and a small solenoid (2) under a bronze valve. Remove this pipe and cut it in half. Connect the two halves to the T so they are at right angles and add the extra joining pipe to the remaining join. At this stage it is a good idea to join the gauge tube as well. Replace the engine pipe to its original location. You should now have something looking like Figure 2.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/t_connector.jpg\" alt=\"T Connector\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - T-Connector</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Recirculation valve actuating pipe</p>\r\n<p>Figure 3 shows the alternative connection location in the recirculation valve actuating pipe. Once connected, the process is the same here on.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/t_connector2.jpg\" alt=\"Actuating pipe connection\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Actuating pipe connection</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The vacuum pipe needs threading carefully under the plenum, as shown in Figure 4. Ensure that the tube is not in contact with the engine block. Although it should withstand the heat from the plenum, I wouldn\'t guarantee it for the block!<br /><br />If you connected to the actuating pipe, carefully thread the pipe to the bulkhead so that it is nicely tucked out of the way.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/plenum.jpg\" alt=\"Plenum\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Plenum</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>On the bulkhead, next to the plenum, you will find a rubber grommet as shown by the red arrow in Figure 5. Remove the grommet, cut a small niche in it and thread the vacuum pipe through it. Pass the pipe through the bulkhead hole where the grommet was. From under the dash, locate the pipe and pull it through carefully. You can now replace the grommet, ensuring you have a similar amount of slack as shown in Figure 5.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/grommet.jpg\" alt=\"Grommet\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Grommet</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Carefully remove the A-Pillar trim which is held on by clips. Be aware of the alarm sensor at the top of the pillar. Once the trim has been removed, thread the vacuum pipe under the dash and up through the narrow gap at the base of the pillar. Ensure the pipe is not restricting any controls!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/a_pillar.jpg\" alt=\"A-pillar\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - A-pillar</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Right. You\'ve now got all your fittings to do. Three holes will need drilling, two in the GReddy pod ends to screw it to the A-Pillar trim, and one larger hole in the trim to pass the vacuum pipe and illumination cable through. I would strongly recommend screwing the pod lightly to the trim now as it will make the final fitting in the car much easier. Try to get the pod as close to the speaker mesh as possible.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/gauge_parts.jpg\" alt=\"Gauge Parts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 384px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Gauge Parts</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Mount the gauge in the pod as per the instructions. Connect a longer cable to the gauge illumination wires and thread the cable through the pillar trim as shown in Figure 8.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/gauge_fitting.jpg\" alt=\"Gauge Fitting\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 384px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Gauge Fitting</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Back to the car. Thread the illumination cable through the same gap at the base of the A-Pillar. Now thread the vacuum pipe through the trim hole and connect to the gauge as per instructions. Be particularly careful if you have a nylon vacuum pipe. It is very easy to put a kink in it! Replace the A-Pillar trim, removing any cable and pipe slack. Now screw the pod into the holes you prepared earlier and cover with the screw covers. I connected the illumination cable to the dash dimmer dial. If you have an S14a, it doesn\'t have one, so you\'ll have to connect elsewhere.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/boost_gauge.jpg\" alt=\"Boost Gauge\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Boost Gauge</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Job done, and one well smart gauge pod!</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:44:28', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:33:21', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:44:28', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 12, '', '', 1, 3, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');
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(106, 193, 'Fitting an A\'PEXi AVC-R', 'fitting-an-apexi-avcr', '<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The A\'PEXi AVC-R (Actuator Valve Controller Type-R) is probably THE best electronic boost controller current available. It allows control over exactly how much boost to apply AND where to apply it throughout all gears and revs.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Fitting the AVC-R seems a pretty daunting task, especially when you first open the box! I had help from SXOC member, R.Sendout (actually, he did quite a bit! <img src=\"images/smilies/notworthy.gif\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" height=\"15\" width=\"29\" />). If you are fairly familiar with your engine layout, you should be fine fitting the unit yourself. If you are unsure, get help!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">This guide applies to the S14, S14a and (on the whole) S15.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">I would like to point-out at this stage that this guide is here to provide you with help to fit your AVC-R. The instructions are correct and my unit worked properly when complete. However, I accept no responsibility whatsoever for any damage that you do to your car and ECU. If you are not happy and confident fitting vacuum hoses and splicing ECU wires, pay to get it fitted professionally.</span></p>\r\n<p>I would recommend buying a small bag of 6mm x 25mm bolts if you wish to mount the solenoid and sensor in the locations I have below. The bolts provided are too small for the existing holes and the Nissan bolts won\'t fit due to their washers. You will probably have to drill one hole. Ensure you have some waterproof sealant to cover the hole.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Familiarise yourself with the red circled areas in Figure 1, as these are the two where all the work is going to be done. The pipe on the left is where the pressure sensor is going to T in. The right circled pipework and boost solenoid is going to be completely replaced with new pipes and solenoid.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/vacuum_hoses.jpg\" alt=\"Boost hose arrangement\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 637px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Boost hose arrangement</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The first step is to remove the boost solenoid and all of the pipework attached to it. The small pipe on the air intake (Figure 2) needs blocking with a screw.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr1.jpg\" alt=\"Block the air intake feed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Block the air intake feed</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>I bolted the boost solenoid onto the old solenoid mounting bracket. The rubber washer provides perfect cushioning and sound deadening. Note that one of the holes in the new solenoid\'s mount needs to be drilled slightly larger to allow one of the new 6mm bolts through (see note above). Place the wiring out of the way for now.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr2.jpg\" alt=\"New boost solenoid\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - New boost solenoid</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Carefully drill the two holes in the pressure sensor slightly larger to allow two new 8mm bolts to fit. The sensor will then bolt perfectly into the two holes on the suspension mount shown in Figure 4. The sensor MUST be fitted this way up.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr3.jpg\" alt=\"Pressure sensor\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Pressure sensor</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Cut a piece of the 12mm hose provided to fit comfortably between the bottom solenoid connection and the actuator. Secure the hose using the metal grips provided (Figure 5).</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr4.jpg\" alt=\"Solenoid to actuator hose\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Solenoid to actuator hose</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Cut a piece of the 12mm hose provided to fit comfortably between the side solenoid connection and the plenum-to-intercooler pipe (the one with the resonance box on S14s). Secure the hose using the metal grips provided (Figure 6). There are two plastic hose holders attached to the turbo hotpipe (the stainless one above). You can remove one and clip this hose into the other.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr5.jpg\" alt=\"Solenoid to cold pipe hose\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Solenoid to cold pipe hose</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>OK. You now need to T in the smaller hose provided into the plenum-to-recirculation valve hose (check Figure 1). This should be a simple matter of cutting the existing hose and inserting the appropriately sized plastic T. It looks a bit complicated in Figure 7 due to my recirc valve having been removed and a boost gauge pipe already being inserted in the same hose. In my case, this hose had been blocked and I simply connected the new hose to the end of it.<br /><br />Attach one end of the new hose to the T piece you inserted and the other end onto the connector on the sensor. The hose should be tight enough without the need for grips.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr6.jpg\" alt=\"Pressure sensor feed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Pressure sensor feed</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Cut the new hose halfway along its length and insert the plastic air filter (Figure 8). Again, these connections should be tight enough without grips. Tuck the hose safely out of the way. Make sure its nowhere near the radiator fan!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr7.jpg\" alt=\"Boost hose air filter\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Boost hose air filter</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Connect to wiring harness to the pressure sensor connector and pass it across to the solenoid side of the engine bay. I tucked mine tidily behind the brake pipes on the bulkhead.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr8.jpg\" alt=\"Pressure sensor wiring harness\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Pressure sensor wiring harness</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Connect the wiring harness to the boost solenoid wiring connector and thread it down the gap in the very corner of the engine bay as indicated in Figure 10.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr9.jpg\" alt=\"Boost solenoid wiring harness\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Boost solenoid wiring harness</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Jack the car up and remove the passenger front wheel. Remove the rear part of the wheel arch liner. You should see the wiring harness that was threaded down from the engine bay. Some S14s have a grommet under the liner that will allow the harness to be passed through into the cabin. Most, however, do not. This is where I needed to do the only bodywork drilling. Drill a hole EXACTLY in the location shown in Figure 11. The hole must be sufficiently large enough to pass the AVC-R control unit connector through.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr10.jpg\" alt=\"Wiring harness\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - Wiring harness</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Before working on the ECU, disconnect the battery!&nbsp;<br /><br />Remove the plastic cover protecting the ECU in the passenger footwell and unbolt the ECU. There will be a gap in the bulkhead behind the ECU and soundproofing in approximately the location arrowed in Figure 12. You should be able to feel the harness that you threaded through from the other side. Pull the harness carefully through. You need to achieve a happy balance of tightness for the harness in the engine bay and enough slack in the cabin for the AVC-R control unit cable to connect to it AND be tucked away safely. For this reason, I would advise not putting the wheel and arch liner back on until you are completely finished.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr10a.jpg\" alt=\"The ECU\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12 - The ECU</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!</span></strong><br /><strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">You need to be aware that Nissan started fitting S14a type ECUs into S14s from November 1995. If you have a 1995/6 S14, you MUST check which ECU you have before touching the wiring. Remove the plastic wiring cover from your ECU and compare the number of pins with the pinout diagrams below. Once you are sure which ECU you have, proceed to the next stage.</span></strong></p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr_s14_ecu_pinouts.jpg\" alt=\"S14 ECU pinouts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 311px; text-align: center; display: block;\">S14 ECU pinout diagram</span></span><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr_s14a_ecu_pinouts.jpg\" alt=\"S14a &amp; S15 ECU pinouts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 313px; text-align: center; display: block;\">S14a &amp; S15 ECU pinout diagram</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The appropriate coloured wires needs splicing onto the matching wires using the ECU pinout diagrams. As stated above, ensure both ground wires are spliced onto the same ECU wire.<br /><br />Once each ECU wire is identified, VERY CAREFULLY shave a section of the wire\'s sleeve to leave enough bare wire to attach the relevant harness wire using the provided metal crimps and a crimping tool. This needs to be done for all six harness wires.&nbsp;<br /><br />This is, by far, the most nerve-wracking part of the installation! Take your time, don\'t rush it, and make absolutely sure you are connecting the correct wires.&nbsp;<br /><br />Once complete, bolt the ECU wire cover back on to the ECU and bolt the unit back in place. Reconnect the battery.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr_wiring_colours.jpg\" alt=\"Wiring diagram\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 514px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Wiring diagram</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Where you want you control unit is entirely up to you. I found that mine was fairly unobtrusive over the gap where the ash tray was. Wherever you put it, you need to thread its cable down and attach it to the wiring harness. Tuck or tie the cabling safely away.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/avcr11.jpg\" alt=\"Fitted!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 13 - Fitted!</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">TEST THE UNIT!!&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Once happy, replace the ECU footwell cover. Coat the wheel arch hole that the harness goes through with plenty of waterproofing sealant and reattach the arch liner.&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Put the wheel back on and lower the car.&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Tidy any stray wiring in the engine bay using tie grips.&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Right! Now you just need to read the instructions for how to <a target=\"_blank\" href=\"http://download.jull.net/apexi_avcr_ins.pdf\" rel=\"noopener\">set up your AVC-R</a>!!</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:45:08', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:33:34', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:45:08', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 11, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(107, 194, 'Fitting a de-cat', 'fitting-a-de-cat', '<p>Try breathing-out through your nose whilst half pinching your nostrils. This is akin to what your engine has to do to get exhaust gases past a catalytic converter! This obviously has an impact on the car\'s performance. It is a simple matter to replace the cat with a de-cat pipe.</p>\r\n<p>It should be noted that the S14a has a second smaller cat in the downpipe from the turbo and a replacement pipe is available for this too.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">WARNING! Running an S14, S14a and S15 without a catalytic converter is NOT illegal in the UK. However, not passing emissions testing is, and it is unlikely to without a cat fitted.</span></p>\r\n<p><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">The S14, S14a and S15 all require different sized de-cats. Ensure you have the correct size!</span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;Ideally, you need a trolley jack to gain adequate access to the cat. The job should take about ten minutes, so long as your rusted bolts don\'t shear! You will need a 10mm and 17mm socket and, of course, a de-cat pipe. Depending on the condition of the existing gaskets, you may need replacements.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Using the 10mm socket, remove the four bolts holding the cat shield on. Next, remove the four nuts on bolts holding the cat to the system (Figure 1). Be careful of failing rust! You can now carefully remove the cat from the system.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/decat1.jpg\" alt=\"Removing the cat\" style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Removing the cat</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 2 shows the removed cat. Be sure to keep this safe. You will need to fit it back on for the MoT road test each year! Coat the bolts in WD40 to reduce further rusting.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/decat2.jpg\" alt=\"The offending moggy\" style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - The offending moggy</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 3 shows the shiny new de-cat pipe replacement.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/decat3.jpg\" alt=\"De-cat primed and ready\" style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - De-cat primed and ready</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Check the gaskets and replace if necessary. Now bolt the de-cat pipe into the gap in the system using the four bolts provided. That\'s it.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img src=\"images/guides/decat4.jpg\" alt=\"De-cat in place\" style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - De-cat in place</span></span></p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:45:27', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:33:49', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:45:27', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 10, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(108, 195, 'Fitting a pigeon', 'fitting-a-pigeon', '<p align=\"left\">Standard Recirculation Valve Removal</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">What is the dump valve and why remove it? SXOC member Nick Kudrycz explains much better than I can.</p>\r\n<p>\"<em>This is the valve that releases compressed air from your intake when you take your foot of the throttle. Nissan fitted this as standard to help meet emissions standards and also to prevent the lovely rally-esque flutter noise. This noise is created as the compressed air does an about-turn back through your spinning turbo blades</em></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><em>The standard dump valve is believed to leak at around 1 bar (14.5psi) and your options are to buy an aftermarket one or to get shut altogether.</em></p>\r\n<p><em>Removing the valve *should* be safe when running relatively low boost pressures (&lt; 1.4bar) although some really good information can be found <a href=\"http://www.autospeed.com/A_1457/page1.html?src=suggestions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">here</a> if you\'re unsure. Note: I wouldn\'t recommend doing this if you still have your Cat fitted. Without a fuelling computer, your car will overfuel on lift-off causing unburnt fuel to pass through into the exhaust system and could foul the Cat.</em>\"</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>[audio src=\"images/pigeon.mp3\"]</p>\r\n<p><strong>Listen to a pigeon in flight!</strong></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">WARNING!</span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Running without a DV/BOV at high boost (15psi+) may cause damage to your WMIC/FMIC due to back pressure.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Before doing this mod, you must have something to block the intake and out-take pipes, as well as the small actuating pipe. I bought two aluminium plugs (27mm and 30mm diameters) from SXOC member \'Mark\' for this purpose. They are, however, available from other sources. I used a small bolt to block the 10mm actuating pipe.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You should only need 8mm (for the jubilee clips) and 10mm sockets, but a flat-head screwdriver may come in handy for unclipping things. You will need to remove the battery to allow proper access to the dump valve.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">First, unbolt the pipe marked (2) in (Figure 1) from the rocker cover. It will be held by 10mm bolts. You will also need to unclip the cable attached to it. Undo the jubilee clip marked (3) and remove pipe 2. This pipe is attached to the dump valve at the other end (1).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/pigeon1.jpg\" alt=\"Pre DV removal\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Pre DV removal</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Taking a closer look at the dump valve (Figure 2) you can see three pipes attached to the dump valve. First undo the clip holding the out-take pipe to the dump valve and lever it off. This is the other end of the pipe you unbolted from the rocker cover. You should be able to completely remove it now. Next, loosen the pinch clip on the actuating pipe and disconnect it. Finally, undo the jubilee clip at the opposite end of the intake pipe to the dump valve. Unbolt the dump valve from its mounts and twist it forward. This will allow the plastic end of the intake pipe to come off and you can remove the valve and pipe.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/pigeon2.jpg\" alt=\"DV overview\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - DV overview</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 3 shows the removed pipes and dump valve.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/pigeon3.jpg\" alt=\"Intake and out-take pipes with dump valve\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Intake and out-take pipes with dump valve</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 4 shows the two plugs required to block off the intake and out-take holes. The out-take is 27mm and the intake 30mm.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/pigeon4.jpg\" alt=\"Aluminium plugs\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Aluminium plugs</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The intake plug will be subjected to a great deal of pressure under boost and people have encountered problems with them shooting out. For this reason I would advise sealing it in with some Superglue or silicon sealant then tightening the jubilee clip firmly. Use a small bolt or screw for the actuating pipe and reapply the pinch clip. Tuck or tie the actuating pipe away from the fan.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/pigeon5.jpg\" alt=\"Blocked pipes\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Blocked pipes</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Insert the out-take plug and tighten the jubilee clip.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/pigeon6.jpg\" alt=\"Out-take plug\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Out-take plug</span></span></p>\r\n<div align=\"left\">&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Replace the battery and you\'re done. One racing pigeon released!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:45:58', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:34:00', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:45:58', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 9, '', '', 1, 2, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(109, 196, 'Replacing front brake discs', 'replacing-front-brake-discs', '<p align=\"left\">This guide was written for the fitting of a BMW M3 front disc conversion. However, it can be applied fairly easily to the Apex big brake conversion, or just for replacing standard sized discs.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">If you don\'t have anodised calliper spacers, I would recommend that you treat them well in advance (I painted mine with Hammerite high heat paint). (Figure 1)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_7.jpg\" alt=\"Calliper brackets\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Calliper brackets</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Here\'s a look at how tiny the standard brake discs look. (Figure 2)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_1.jpg\" alt=\"Discs before\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Discs before</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Loosen off the wheel nuts, jack up the front of the car and place it on axle stands. Remove one of the wheels and take a look at the setup. Unless you have virtually new brake pads, it will be necessary to change them at the same time as fitting new discs. Mine had not been on that long, so I kept them. (Figure 3)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_2.jpg\" alt=\"Brake setup\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Brake setup</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Remove the clip holding the brake line to the suspension strut. You are going to need to move the calliper out of the way, so the line will need to be unrestricted. Remember that metal brake lines are quite fragile, so handle with care. (Figure 4)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_3.jpg\" alt=\"Remove retaining clip\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Remove retaining clip</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You now need to undo the two 19mm calliper bolts on the rear (arrowed). These may need a soaking in WD40 beforehand and a breaker bar to loosen. Remember that you\'re your perspective facing the disc, these bolts loosen clockwise. Once the bolts have been removed it is a simple matter of lifting the calliper off the disc. Be careful to ensure the brake line is free of the suspension. Rest the calliper on a raised support of some kind to keep the weight off the brake line. (Figure 5)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><br /><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_4.jpg\" alt=\"Remove calliper bolts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Remove calliper bolts</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You can now remove the old brake disc. This may be tricky depending on how long its been fitted. It\'ll be rusted-on and will probably need at least a couple of wacks from a rubber mallet to loosen (a cloth-wrapped hammer also works). If it still won\'t budge, you can try fitting a bolt into one of the two threaded holes in the centre of the disc. The bolt will apply pressure to the hub and force the disc away. (Figure 6 &amp; 7)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_5.jpg\" alt=\"Remove old disc\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Remove old disc</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">If you are fitting bigger discs, you will probably need to either trim, remove or bend the brake guards back. I bent mine back.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_6.jpg\" alt=\"Disc removed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Disc removed</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The M3 kit\'s calliper brackets are fitted by lining-up the threaded holes on the plate with the original mount holes. The plate mounts behind the original with the long side running parallel to the hub. Use the short bolts and locking washers. Torque the bolts tight. (Figure 8)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_8.jpg\" alt=\"Bolt calliper adapter\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Bolt calliper adapter</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You can now fit a new disc. The spigot ring need to be fitted with the angled edge facing the hub. The M3 discs are directional, so it is essential that you fit the correct disc to the matching hub. The interior cooling fins on the top edge of the disc should point towards the rear of the car. With the disc in place, use a few wheel nuts to hold it in position for refitting the calliper. Ensure there is sufficient clearance between the disc and guard if necessary. (Figure 9)<br /><br />If you are changing pads, remove and replace the pads according to the guide&nbsp;<a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=70&amp;Itemid=89\">here</a>.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_9.jpg\" alt=\"New disc fitted\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - New disc fitted</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Carefully lift the calliper back over the disc so that it lines-up with the new mounting holes on the adapter plate. You may need to push the pads back (compress the calliper pistons) to get the calliper over the disc. The calliper will still need support. Pass a long bolt through the lower adapter hole from the rear. A bolt spacer needs to go on this bolt between mounting adapter and calliper. Tighten finger-tight. Repeat with the top bolt. Torque the bolts tight. (Figure 10)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_10.jpg\" alt=\"Bolt calliper to adapter\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Bolt calliper to adapter</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Turn the disk to ensure it is unobstructed. Before refitting the wheel, pump the brake pedal several times to push the pads against the disc and check for fluid leaks.<br /><br />If happy, remove the temporary wheel nuts and refit the wheel. (Figure 11)<br /><br />Repeat for the other side!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brake_discs_11.jpg\" alt=\"New discs fitted\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - New discs fitted</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:46:17', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:34:09', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:46:17', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 8, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(110, 197, 'Replacing front brake pads', 'replacing-front-brake-pads', '<p align=\"left\">Changing front brake pads has got to be one of the simplest maintenance jobs to carry out on the S14/a/S15! It is actually easier than an oil change.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">If you are changing brake discs, you may find my guide <a href=\"index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=69&amp;Itemid=75\">here</a> useful.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Take a look at Figure 1 and familiarise yourself with the construction of the calliper.<br /><br />After removing the wheel, the first thing to do is remove the pin clip from the rear of the calliper. this allows the calliper pins to slid out. The best way to do this is to push your thumb down on the top half of the cross spring applying pressure to the tops of the pads, and slide the top pin out. Just sliding the pin out will send the cross spring into orbit once released! You can then slide the bottom pin out easily.<br /><br />Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay to allow for the increase in fluid once the calliper pistons are pushed back. The easiest way to push the pistons back is to keep the old pads in place and use a flathead screwdriver to gently lever the pads away from the disks. Remember to put a cloth around the screwdriver to avoid damage to the disk! Once you have a small gap between pad and disk, you increase the leverage.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/pads1.jpg\" alt=\"Brake caliper assembly\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Brake calliper assembly</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">All four pistons need to be pushed right back as far as they will go (don\'t force them!). You will now be able to freely slide the pads out of the calliper (Figure 2). Take careful note of how the pad retainers and shims fit on the pads - you\'re going to have to put them on the new pads!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/pads2.jpg\" alt=\"Remove old pads\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Remove old pads</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 3 shows all of the parts removed.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/pads3.jpg\" alt=\"Pads and pins\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Pads and pins</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">OK, time to put fit the new pads. Place the shim and retainer on each pad and gentle slide them into place. Don\'t push them in too far! The top edge on the pad should match the groove on the outside edge of the disk. If you\'re fitting new disks, compare the position on your old disks.<br /><br />Fit the cross spring onto the bottom pin and slide the pin back into the calliper. The pin should go through the pad holes. Push the top half of the cross spring down and slide the top pin into position. You can now fit the pin clip back into the pins. The clip should be flush with the wall of the calliper, not loose. Centralise the cross spring if necessary.<br /><br />Gentle press the brake pedal until you meet resistance to position the pads against the disks.<br /><br />That\'s it! Do the other side and you\'re done. Make sure you check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and replace the cap.<br /><br /><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">DON\'T FORGET!!</span> You need to bed the pads in. No heavy braking for about 200 miles!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/pads4.jpg\" alt=\"New pads\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - New pads</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:46:39', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:35:00', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:46:39', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 7, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');
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(111, 198, 'Z32 rear brake conversion', 'z32-rear-brake-conversion', '<p align=\"left\">Combination calliper/handbrake solutions are not as good as dedicated calliper/disc and independent parking brake solutions. The S14 and S15 both have rear combination brakes. A relatively straightforward conversion is to fit the rear brake setup from the Z32 300ZX.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The conversion consists of three main parts:</p>\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>Z32 rear discs and callipers, including replacement hoses</li>\r\n<li>Z32/S13 parking brake components and backing plate</li>\r\n<li>R33 handbrake cables</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<p align=\"left\">It is strongly recommended that you also replace the brake master cylinder with a Z32 item. This alters the braking bias, giving increased braking power to the new rear brakes. If doing this, it is a good idea to renew the seals in the unit.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">It is recommended to refurbish the callipers too.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">A suggestion to those looking to order any of the above parts new, particularly the handbrake cables, is to do so direct from Japan via <a href=\"http://www.perfectrun.com.au/\">Perfectrun</a>.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">I have received numerous requests for various part numbers for this conversion, so I\'ve now listed down EVERYTHING you would need if buying all new.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>R33 handbrake cables</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;<span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_r33_handbrake_cables_1.jpg\" alt=\"R33 handbrake cables - FAST diagram\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 634px; text-align: center; display: block;\">R33 handbrake cables - FAST diagram</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_r33_handbrake_cables_2.jpg\" alt=\"R33 handbrake cables - FAST listing\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 922px; text-align: center; display: block;\">R33 handbrake cables - FAST listing</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Z32 parking brake mechanism</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_rear_parking_brake_1.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 parking brake mechanism - FAST diagram\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 897px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 parking brake mechanism - FAST diagram</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_rear_parking_brake_2.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 parking brake mechanism - FAST listing\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 946px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 parking brake mechanism - FAST listing</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Z32 rear disc brake rotor</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_rear_rotor_1.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 rear disc brake rotor - FAST diagram\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 264px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 rear disc brake rotor - FAST diagram</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_rear_rotor_2.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 rear disc brake rotor - FAST listing\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 949px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 rear disc brake rotor - FAST listing</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Z32 rear disc brake calliper</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_rear_calliper_1.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 rear brake caliper - FAST diagram\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 1078px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 rear brake calliper - FAST diagram</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_rear_calliper_2.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 rear brake caliper - FAST listing\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 953px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 rear brake calliper - FAST listing</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Z32 brake master cylinder</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_bmc_1.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 brake master cylinder - FAST diagram\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 785px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 brake master cylinder - FAST diagram</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/fast_z32_bmc_2.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 brake master cylinder - FAST listing\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 914px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Z32 brake master cylinder - FAST listing</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Tools required for this conversion:</strong></p>\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 27mm and 32mm sockets</li>\r\n<li>Short and long socket extensions</li>\r\n<li>10mm extra deep socket</li>\r\n<li>19mm spanner</li>\r\n<li>10mm brake pipe spanner</li>\r\n<li>2 foot breaker bar with as long an over-bar as possible</li>\r\n<li>Hammer</li>\r\n<li>3 stud hub-puller</li>\r\n<li>\r\n<div>Brake bleeder</div>\r\n</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Loosen wheel nuts, jack the rear up and remove the wheels. Remove the wheel centres.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_21.jpg\" alt=\"How it looks before\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - How it looks before</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Figure 2 shows what we start with.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_1.jpg\" alt=\"Wheel off\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Wheel off</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Remove the split pins in the hub nuts on both sides (Figure 3). Replace the wheels and three nuts per side. Lower vehicle - handbreak on.<br /><br />Using a 32mm socket, short extension and breaker bar (with over-bar), loosen the hub nuts. These are real bastards and you\'ll soon see why the over-bar is required.<br /><br />Once loosened, jack rear on vehicle back up and place on axle stands. Remove wheels again.<br /><br />Chick the front wheels and place in gear. Release handbrake.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_2.jpg\" alt=\"Hub split pin\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Hub split pin</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Using a 19mm socket, remove the two calliper mounting bolts (Figure 4) and slide the calliper off the disc. Rest the calliper out of the way on the subframe.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_3.jpg\" alt=\"Remove caliper retaining bolts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Remove calliper retaining bolts</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Remove the disc from the hub. The amount of rust build-up will dictate how much effort required to remove it. If you don\'t want to keep the disc, some hammer action should to it...</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_5.jpg\" alt=\"Disc off - here\'s the hub\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Disc off - here\'s the hub</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The process many people follow next is to remove the knuckle from the subframe, then remove the hub from the knuckle. This is complete unnecessary and will add a couple of hours to the completion time.<br /><br />The hub can be removed whilst attached to the knuckle. On the rear of the knuckle are four 19mm bolts around where the driveshaft passes through (Figure 5). Loosen these bolts using a short extension. You will need to turn the hub to gain access, due to the shape of the driveshaft. Remove the bolts.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_4.jpg\" alt=\"Save yourself hours by undoing these bolts!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Save yourself hours by undoing these bolts!</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Remove the hub nut. Attach the hub-puller and remove the hub from the driveshaft. Remove the back plate.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_6.jpg\" alt=\"Hub pulling\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Hub pulling</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>With the hub removed, you can clearly see the four holes that the bolts pass through to the hub. Note the large hole in the knuckle, above the driveshaft. The parking brake mechanism will pass through this.<br /><br />Cover all contact surfaces and the driveshaft spindle with copper grease.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_7.jpg\" alt=\"Hub removed. That\'ll be the driveshaft...\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Hub removed. That\'ll be the driveshaft...</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Pause for a minute to remove the handbrake cable from the calliper. Undo the 12mm bolt holding the mounting bracket to the calliper and remove the cable.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_8.jpg\" alt=\"Handbrake cable mounting bracket\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Handbrake cable mounting bracket</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;There is another bracket further down the cable attaching it to the crossbeam. Once undone, thread the cable out of the subframe and away under the centre of the car.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_9.jpg\" alt=\"Route of handbrake cable\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Route of handbrake cable</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Thread the handbrake cable along the route of the old one and push the parking brake mechanism into place by pushing the mounting bolt though the knuckle hole mentioned earlier. The hole will be rusted and the bolt will need some \'teasing\' to fit. In fact, you will almost certainly need to wack the hell out it to get it through fully!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_10.jpg\" alt=\"Fitting the handbrake mechanism\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - Fitting the handbrake mechanism</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Once the bolt is through, add the securing washer and nut using a 28mm socket.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_11.jpg\" alt=\"Securing the handbrake mechanism\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12 - Securing the handbrake mechanism</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Push the hub back onto the driveshaft and hand tighten each on the knuckle bolts. Remember that you will need to turn the driveshaft to gain access to each hole.<br /><br />Tighten the bolts EVENLY (90Nm).<br /><br />Tighten the hub nut as tight as possible. It will be tighten fully later.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_12.jpg\" alt=\"Re-fit those magic time saving knuckle bolts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 13 - Re-fit those magic time saving knuckle bolts</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Push the brake disc over the wheel studs and parking brake. Tighten a couple of wheel nuts to the disc to hold it in place.<br /><br />You will need to adjust the parking brake by removing the rubber grommet and turning the adjuster (at the bottom of the mechanism). The shoes should be just touching the drum.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_13.jpg\" alt=\"Disc on and initial hub nut tightening\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 14 - Disc on and initial hub nut tightening</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Time for the callipers. It is recommended to have something to catch the dripping brake fluid.<br /><br />Make sure you have the callipers on the correct side. The bleed nipple should be at the top when the calliper is fitted. Fit them the wrong way round and you\'ll never bleed all the air out!<br /><br />Attach the new brake hose to the calliper and tighten. Remove the retaining clip at the top end of the existing brake hose. Undo the brake pipe fastener using a 19mm spanner and 10mm brake pipe spanner. Set the calliper aside. Quickly attach the new hose and tighten.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_14.jpg\" alt=\"Attach the brake hose\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 15 - Attach the brake hose</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Slide the calliper over the disc and bolt it to the knuckle using the 19mm bolts previously removed. Tighten to 26Nm.<br /><br />Assemble the brake pads, shims,pins and anti-rattle springs. This is almost exactly the same process as in my front pad replacement guide.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_15.jpg\" alt=\"Fit caliper and pads\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 16 - Fit calliper and pads</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Now the fiddly bit. You need to unclip the handbrake cable from its channel and release it from the front handbrake bracket. Unthread it from the car.<br /><br />Thread the new cable through, following the route of the old cable. Attach it to the front cable bracket.<br /><br />That all sounds easy. Its not. Access is very restricted by the propshaft. On the left hand side the exhaust front box in also in the way!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_16.jpg\" alt=\"Attach new handbrake cables\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 17 - Attach new handbrake cables</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>WHEN BOTH NEW CABLES ARE ATTACHED, the front handbrake cable will need tightening. This is done via the bolt inside the cover of the handbrake lever (under the lever). You will need a deep 10mm socket. Pull the lever up five clicks, then tighten the adjuster. Pressure should be firm around five to six clicks.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_17.jpg\" alt=\"Tighten the handbrake\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 18 - Tighten the handbrake</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Replace the wheels and fix with three nuts. Jack for car, remove axle stands and lower.<br /><br />Torque the hub nuts to 250Nm.<br /><br />Jack the car again and remove the wheels. Fit the hub nut split pins. Replace the wheel centres and fit the wheels. Lower and tighten wheel nuts.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><strong>Replacing the Brake Master Cylinder (BMC)</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">If not fitting a Z32 BMC, skip this next bit.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>First and foremost, you need to remember that the chances are that any second hand Z32 BMC you get will probably be ten to fifteen years old. To be on the safe side, renew the pistons.<br /><br />Changing the BMC is fairly straightforward, with a few precautions. You are dealing with lots of brake fluid, so ensure you don\'t spill any and have containers to catch drips. There is also a proceedure to follow before attaching the brake lines.<br /><br />First, you need to drain the existing BMC. Place a container under the BMC brake pipes. Using a 10mm brake pipe spanner, undo the two brake pipes attached to the BMC and ensure the fluid is dripping into the container. Gently pump the brake pedal to drain all fluid from the reservoir.<br /><br />Once drained, undo the two 12mm nuts holding the BMC to the Brake Servo. Pull the BMC away from the servo and lift free. Empty the container and replace. Attach the Z32 BMC and secure to the servo.<br /><br />You will need two people for the next bit. Holding fingers over the two BMC brake feed holes, fill the reservoir with new fluid. Remove fingers from the holes and get your assistant to VERY gently press the brake pedal AND KEEP PRESSED. Cover the holes again and get your assistant to lift off. This will form a vaccuum and stop air being sucked into the BMC. Repeat this process several time to clear all air in the BMC.<br /><br />Attach the two brake pipes to the BMC and tighten. Top up the reservoir.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_18.jpg\" alt=\"Existing brake master cylinder\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 19 - Existing brake master cylinder</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The Z32 BMC uses a different fluid sensor connector, so you will need to cut or splice into the old connector with two new wires with female blade connectors. These will slide straight onto the blades on the reservoir.<br /><br />Bench bleeding<br /><br />You may struggle to clear all the air out of the BMC via the pedal. If this is the case, a bench bleed is recommended.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_19.jpg\" alt=\"Z32 BMC reservoir connector\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 392px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 20 - Z32 BMC reservoir connector</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>To hook up a basic bench bleed, you with need a short length of brake hose (flared both ends), two BN12 brake unions and a 1 metre length of CLEAR screen washer or aquarium hose.<br /><br />Cut the brake and clear hose in half. Thread the brake hoses into the unions and connect a piece of clear hose to each unflared end. Attach unions to the BMC.<br /><br />The BMC needs placing in a bench vice COMPLETELY level. Fill the reservoir with fluid and submerge both clear hose lines. Using a large screwdriver, push the BMC piston in and release. You will notice air bubbling out of the clear lines. Repeat this action until most air has cleared. Now you need to push the piston and hold it in. Very fine bubbles will still be released. These need to rise enough in the clear lines so that they won\'t be sucked back into the BMC when the piston is released. This will need repeating until the majority of fine bubbles have gone.<br /><br />Now the tricky bit. Transfer the BMC back to the car and refit. Get an assistant to press the blake pedal fully and hold down. As quickly and seamlessly as possible (!), swap the bench bleed lines with the permanent brake lines. Release the pedal and preceed with the main system bleed.<br /><br />Bleed the system<br /><br />The entire brake system will now need bleeding. The order is:<br /><br />LH rear<br />RH rear<br />LH front<br />RH front.<br /><br />I would say to do this twice, go fo a drive (check the pedal feel before driving off!) and do some hard braking, then bleed again.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_22.jpg\" alt=\"Bench bleed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 21 - Bench bleed</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>And there you have it. Enjoy your improved braking.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/z32_rear_brake_20.jpg\" alt=\"New rear brakes!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 22 - New rear brakes!</span></span></p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:47:00', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:35:12', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:47:00', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 6, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(112, 199, 'Fitting a Walbro', 'fitting-a-walbro', '<p align=\"left\">If you are running more than 12psi of boost, you should really upgrade your fuel pump. The standard fuel pump will start struggling to deliver enough fuel above this and that means your could start running lean at higher revs. Running lean means Det and bye-bye engine. Even if you simply need to replace the fuel pump, replace it with an uprated pump, as it will undoubtably be cheaper than the Nissan replacement.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The popular choice is a Walbro GS-341 (also known as a 255 due to it being capably of pumping 255 litres of fuel per hour). This guide shows how to fit one of these.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You will need a blunt flathead and crosshead screwdriver, a mallet, pliers, a pair of wire crimps and a couple of old cloths. It is advisable to have a few pairs of rubber gloves too, unless you enjoy the smell of petrol on your hands for a day or so. <img src=\"images/smilies/tongue.gif\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" height=\"15\" width=\"15\" /></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">It is best to do this job when you have less than a quarter of a tank left.</p>\r\n<p>Firstly: open all doors and the boot to get as much ventilation as possible. Next, start the engine and pull the fuel pump fuse. Its the third down on the right in the footwell fusebox (15 amp). The engine will stop fairly quickly. The reason for this is to clear the fuel line and release pressure. If you don\'t, petrol will piss everywhere when you disconnect the hoses.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">DISCONNECT THE BATTERY</span>. Next, disconnect the battery if you just ignored that! One stray spark from a live electrical connection and you won\'t be around to worry about not doing it.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Drop the rear seat back. You will see a gray cover over the bulkhead. Remove the two black lugs holding it in place and fold it back into the boot. You will now clearly see the plate covering the fuel tank (Figure 1).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro1.jpg\" alt=\"Fuel tank cover\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Fuel tank cover</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Use a crosshead screwdriver to undo the four retaining bolts. They are quite easy to undo. Lifting the plate, you will see that the cables feeding through it are connected (Figure 2). Unclip these connectors and swivel the plate back out of the way. The connectors are two and three pin, so they will only re-connect correctly.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro2.jpg\" alt=\"Remove the cover\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Remove the cover</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">I marked up all three fuel hoses to identify them easily when reconnecting later. Undo the screws on the two left hose grips and move them back along the hoses. Use pliers to pinch the right grip back.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro3.jpg\" alt=\"S14/a fuel lines\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - S14/a fuel lines</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Appended for S15</strong><br /><br />Figure 3a shows the fuel pipe connections for the S15. As can be seen, they are considerably simpler to remove and replace. Be warned, however. Fuel is much more likely to piss out everywhere when you remove them. Ensure you have a great deal of cloth ready to catch it.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wabro3a.jpg\" alt=\"S15 fuel lines\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3a - S15 fuel lines</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Carefully remove the hoses from their connections. Make sure you have a cloth under each one, as there will still be some excess petrol in the hoses, especially the left ones. Move the hoses back out of the way to allow unrestricted access to the fuel tank lid.<br /><br />There is a screwable black cap holding the white centre lid in place (see Figure 3). This cap will be very tight and will probably need removing (and replacing) by tapping a blunt flathead screwdriver on the ridges. Don\'t tap too hard or the ridges will be damaged.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro4.jpg\" alt=\"Remove fuel hoses\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Remove fuel hoses</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Put on your rubber gloves now. The white lid will pull out from the tank. You will see two fuel pump connections attached to the cap (Figure 5). Disconnect them and place the cap somewhere were it won\'t get dirty. Disconnect the fuel hose from the cap.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro5.jpg\" alt=\"Remove the fuel tank lid\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Remove the fuel tank lid</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">It is quite difficult to explain how the pump holder is mounted in the tank. I was unwilling to risk being blown sky high by taking a flash photo near/in the tank but, helpfully, SXOC Board member \'Bob\'s S14\' wasn\'t!&nbsp;<img src=\"images/smilies/eek.gif\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" height=\"15\" width=\"15\" />&nbsp;You can see in Figure 6 that the holder slides over a clip attached the diagonal front edge of the fuel tank (behind the rear seats). Figure 7 below may help you a bit more.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro5a.jpg\" alt=\"Fuel pump holder\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Fuel pump holder</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Have another cloth ready here. From the boot side of the tank lid, put your hand into the tank, grip the holder and carefully lift it up and towards you. As you remove the holder and pump from the tank, you will see the filter attached to the bottom of the pump. Place the cloth under the filter to avoid dripping petrol everywhere.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro_bracket.jpg\" alt=\"Diagram of fuel pump fitment\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 229px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Diagram of fuel pump fitment</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Lie the pump in a relatively clean work area and take a look at it (Figure 8). The pump itself isn\'t actually fixed on by anything except the small length of hose on the left. Using pliers, release the pinch grips on the hose. The pump should pull out of the hose. It can then be twisted out of it mount on the right.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro6.jpg\" alt=\"Original fuel pump\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Original fuel pump</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The fuel filter that comes with the Walbro is pathetic to say the least. I would recommend that you either transfer your existing filter or get a 300ZX item. If transferring, Turn the pump with the filter pointing up (Figure 9). Be prepared for petrol to come out! Carefully remove the tiny circlip holding the plastic adapter on and take it off.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro7.jpg\" alt=\"Fuel pump filter\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Fuel pump filter</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Turn the pump over. You will see the electrical connectors (Figure 10). The connectors are not required for the Walbro so cut both wires, leaving about 15cm of wire on the old unit. This is in case you need to refit or sell it.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro8.jpg\" alt=\"Original fuel pump connectors\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Original fuel pump connectors</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Appended for S15</strong><br /><br />Figure 10a shows a comparison of the S15 fuel pump with the Walbro. As can be seen, they are VERY similar, right down to the electrical connector. There is no need to alter the existing wiring at all. The existing connector will simply plug into the Walbro (as shown). They are so similar that I even suspect they are the same model.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro10a.jpg\" alt=\"S15 walbro comparison\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10a - S15 Walbro comparison</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Unpack your Walbro! Attach your filter onto the bottom and secure with the old circlip. Make a note of how the new rubber washer seats (Figure 11).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro9.jpg\" alt=\"Fit filter to Walbro\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - Fit filter to Walbro</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Cut the piece of hose supplied with the fitting kit down by about 3cm. Attach the new hose to the holder and pump and seat the pump and washer in the holder end. The hose needs to only be sufficiently long enough to ensure that the pump and rubber washer sit snugly and firmly in the end of the holder.<br /><br />Using wire crimps, splice the new connector wires to the old using the two crimps supplied. If you are in any doubt, its red to red and white to black. It is not sufficient to twist the wires together and stick some insulating tape on. The petrol vapour of the tank will make the tape come off in no time, the wires will spark and you\'ll suddenly have a terminal amount of boost. The wires should not be exposed at all. The safest solution is to solder and shrink wrap them. Once done, plug the new connector into the Walbro.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro10.jpg\" alt=\"Walbro ready to go\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12 - Walbro ready to go</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Appended for S15</strong><br /><br />Due to the fuel pump holder being made to hold a pump the same size as a Walbro, you would expect the Walbro to just fit straight on. In reality, I found it quite fiddly. You may have to adjust the pipe length, you may not. Try the fitting before altering anything. One other important thing to note is that the rubber washer supplied with my Walbro did not fit the pump holder. I had to use the original.<br /><br />As an added precaution, I zip tied a length of rubber hose around the lower half of the pump and holder. I did this to ensure that the holder didn\'t rattle against the side of the tank when refitted. This isn\'t essential, but I\'d have been well pissed off if it rattled after I\'d put it all back together!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/walbro11.jpg\" alt=\"Added protection\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12a - Added protection</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The pump and holder can now be carefully slid back into the fuel tank and back onto its bracket. ensure that it is held firmly.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Reattach the pump\'s electrical connectors and fuel hose to the white lid. Tuck the wires back into the upper end of the tank and replace the lid in the same way it came off (see Figure 4).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Screw the black cap back into place.</p>\r\n<div align=\"left\">Reattach the fuel hose and secure the grips. Reattach the connectors.</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Slide the top plate back into position and screw the bolts back. Secure the cloth cover into place and put the rear seat back up.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Put the fuel pump fuse back in.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Reconnect the battery.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Start the engine and let it tick over for a while to ensure everything is back to normal, then go and enjoy your new fuelling!</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:47:21', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:35:22', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:47:21', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 5, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');
INSERT INTO `lfuve_content` (`id`, `asset_id`, `title`, `alias`, `introtext`, `fulltext`, `state`, `catid`, `created`, `created_by`, `created_by_alias`, `modified`, `modified_by`, `checked_out`, `checked_out_time`, `publish_up`, `publish_down`, `images`, `urls`, `attribs`, `version`, `ordering`, `metakey`, `metadesc`, `access`, `hits`, `metadata`, `featured`, `language`, `note`) VALUES
(113, 200, 'Uprated WMIC', 'uprated-wmic', '<p><strong>Uprated Wing Mounted Inter-cooler</strong></p>\r\n<p>Cold air is the like the Holy Grail to a turbocharged engine. The colder the air entering, the better the performance. The way to achieve this is to \'charge cool\' the air using an inter cooler. Unfortunately, the S14/a is not blessed with a particularly large inter-cooler and, to this end, a popular modification is to fit a Front Mounted Inter-cooler in front of the radiator. This is a very expensive option and requires some bodywork cutting. The battery also needs to be either relocated or replaced by a half size item.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">It is a purely personal thing, but I preferred to spend my money elsewhere. <em>[Addendum: with the introduction of cheaper non-brand front-mounted inter-coolers (some with can be fitted without cutting bodywork), they are a much more sensible and efficient option. I, in fact, fitted one to my S15.]</em></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">A much cheaper option is to fit an uprated Wing Mounted Inter-cooler. You can either purchase these new (although these are also quite expensive) or, as I did, asked a friend in Australia to keep his eyes open for a second hand WMIC from an S15. Luckily, fitting FMICs in Oz is quite common due to the climate, and Rhys quickly managed to find me a near mint condition cooler with all its pipework! The S15 WMIC (and pipework) is a straight replacement for the S14/a item, so fitting is relatively simple. It is also 33% bigger which, although not anywhere near FMIC standards, is a significant increase.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You will need 8 and 10mm sockets, pliers and a flat head screwdriver may be required to tease off rubber hoses.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">First thing to do is to remove the air box. Unclip the box, loosen the jubilee clip on the AFM (the bulky bit in the hose connected to the air box) and remove the top section and filter. Remove the two retaining nuts and bolt and lift the bottom section of the air box clear. If you have an induction filter, remove the mounting bracket and remove the filter from the AFM. Remove the filter air scoop.<br /><br />Next, undo all jubilee clip and grips from the inter-cooler to plenum and turbo to inter-cooler pipes and hoses and remove them. Figure 1 shows these pipes and hoses arrowed.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic1.jpg\" alt=\"Intercooler pipes\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Inter-cooler pipes</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 2 shows the pipes removed.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic2.jpg\" alt=\"Pipes removed\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Pipes removed</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">In Figure 3, the inter-cooler out-take is labelled 1 and the intake 2.<br /><br />I swapped all of the pipes and hoses when I fitted mine. If just changing the WMIC, you obviously can skip the removal of these and simply loosen the two hoses connected to the cooler.<br /><br />With the pipes and hoses removed, we can now move under the car.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic3.jpg\" alt=\"IC outake and intakes\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - IC out-take and intakes</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Ensure the rear wheels are wedged, jack up the passenger side (RHD) and remove the wheel. Remove the screw clips shown in Figure 4 plus the two underneath and gently lift out the ventilated section of the arch liner.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic4.jpg\" alt=\"Remove arch liner\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Remove arch liner</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Undo all the bolts arrowed in Figure 5 and carefully work the inter-cooler free.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic5.jpg\" alt=\"Undo IC bolts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Undo IC bolts</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 6 shows the empty space left!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic6.jpg\" alt=\"Empty space!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Empty space!</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The S14 inter-cooler has an air scoop attached (Figure 7) which needs transferring. Do this after the replacement cooler is in place. Note that the S14a does not have this scoop.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic7.jpg\" alt=\"S14 air scoop\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - S14 air scoop</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 8 shows the difference in thickness on the two inter-coolers.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic8.jpg\" alt=\"Comparing the S14 and S15 WMICs\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Comparing the S14 and S15 WMICs</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Fitting the replacement cooler is simple so long as you haven\'t bolted the air scoop on. Once in place, replace all the mounting bolts. Figure 9 show the new unit in place.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic9.jpg\" alt=\"Fit the replacement IC\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Fit the replacement IC</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 10 shows a front view.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic10.jpg\" alt=\"Front view of WMIC\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Front view of WMIC</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The hoses and pipes can fixed on now. If only replacing the WMIC, reattach the intake and out-take hoses shown in Figure 11.<br /><br /><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">IMPORTANT!</span><br />You must ensure that the pipes and hoses and pushed together fully. When tightening the jubilee clips, DO NOT use a screwdriver. Do it properly and tightly with a socket.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic11.jpg\" alt=\"Refit pipework\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - Re-fit pipework</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 12 shows the replaced pipework. As I fitted all the S15 pipework, you may notice that the resonator box is missing from the front pipe as it didn\'t have one.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/wmic12.jpg\" alt=\"Refit remaining parts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12 - Re-fit remaining parts</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Re-fit the air box or induction filter and filter air scoop.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Attach the inter-cooler air scoop (S14). You will probably only manage to fit two bolts.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Re-fit the arch liner. It will be tight on the S14. There is more room on the S14a due to its much deeper bumper.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Replace wheel and lower the car. Now enjoy the added cooling!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">A number of people have asked me if I\'ve noticed any performance difference since adding the WMIC. The simple answer is no. Come the summer, it may well be different. Without special measuring devices, it is difficult to accurately know the differences. However, 33% is 33% as far as I\'m concerned.</p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:47:40', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:35:34', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:47:40', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 4, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(114, 201, 'Fitting HID converters', 'fitting-hid-converters', '<p align=\"left\">One of the biggest complaints you will hear about the S14/a is that their headlights are pitiful! There are various options you can take to partially overcome this problem. Fitting high power bulbs, \'special\' white or blue bulbs, etc.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The only really effective solution is to invest in a HID (High Intensity Discharge) conversion kit. The price for a kit can vary wildly from £150 to £300. Mine cost about £150 from the US, though you have to take into account additional delivery costs on top of that. Buying several sets for other people will help reduce this. I got mine off Ebay from <a href=\"http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&amp;userid=supervtec&amp;completed=0&amp;sort=3&amp;since=-1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">this seller</a>.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 1 shows one of the converters. I opted for the 4700K bulbs, as these are the closest to those fitted by car manufacturers. Other bulbs are available, but be aware that some are illegal in the UK</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids1.jpg\" alt=\"HID kit\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - HID kit</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;Remove the first headlight unit. If unsure how to do this, follow my instructions&nbsp;<a href=\"mods/headlights.html\">here</a>. Remove the wiring connector, plastic dust cover and rubber seal from the outer light housing. Unhook the wire retaining clip and remove the existing bulb.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids2.jpg\" alt=\"Remove existing bulbs\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Remove existing bulbs</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>You now need to find a mounting place for the two ballast boxes. I attached mine to the base of the headlight unit using the adhesive pads supplied with my kit. I found this to be the least obtrusive location, especially if you have an FMIC. The guidelines state to mount it somewhere where it will get an air flow.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids2a.jpg\" alt=\"Place ballast and ignitor\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Place ballast and ignitor</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>VERY CAREFULLY&nbsp;insert the new xenon bulb and clip it into position.&nbsp;It is imperative that you do not touch the bulb glass with your fingers nor catch it on the housing.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids3.jpg\" alt=\"Insert new HID bulb\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Insert new HID bulb</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Pull the rubber grommet on the wires about an inch from the ballast. Pass the rubber seal over the ballast connectors and wires.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids4.jpg\" alt=\"Thread bulb wiring through seals\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Thread bulb wiring through seals</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Now fit the rubber seal onto the housing. You should find that the inside of the seal should push tightly against the grommet and form a quite tight seal. You may wish to add additional damp-proofing around the seal and wires before screwing the dust cap back.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids5.jpg\" alt=\"Ensure good seals\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Ensure good seals</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Join the two ballast connectors to the converter connectors. They are opposing connectors, so you can\'t get it wrong!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids6.jpg\" alt=\"Join connectors\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Join connectors</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Slot the two spade connectors into the H4 adapter as show in Figure 8 and snap the back into place.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids7.jpg\" alt=\"Wire the H4 adapter\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Wire the H4 adapter</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Connect the adapter to the existing H4 connector.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids8.jpg\" alt=\"Join H4 adapter and connector\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Join H4 adapter and connector</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Made sure all the connectors are tucked in neatly behind the housing unit before fitting it back. This makes all the connections accessible.<br /><br />Repeat this process for the other headlight unit.<br /><br /><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">THIS IS IMPORTANT!</span><br /><br />When the lights are switched on for the first time, keep them on for ten minutes. This is important for the initial \'burning in\' process. Also, ensure you get your alignment checked, otherwise you will find everybody flashing you to dip!&nbsp;<img style=\"border-style: initial; border-color: initial;\" src=\"images/smilies/rolleyes.gif\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" height=\"15\" width=\"15\" />&nbsp;If you want an accurate way to do this yourself, take a look at&nbsp;<a href=\"http://www.danielsternlighting.com/images/Aim.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">these guidelines</a>.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids9.jpg\" alt=\"Replace headlight\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Replace headlight</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Figure 11 shows the startling difference between the new HID xenon bulbs and the normal halogen bulbs.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/hids_compare2.jpg\" alt=\"Comparison\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - Comparison</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/hids_compare1.jpg\" alt=\"Before fitting\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Before fitting</span></span><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto; border: initial initial initial;\" src=\"images/guides/hids_compare3.jpg\" alt=\"After fitting\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">After fitting</span></span></p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:48:02', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:35:42', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:48:02', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 3, '', '', 1, 2, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(115, 202, '!*$@# bottom filter box clip!', 'bottom-filter-box-clip', '<p align=\"left\">For those who have opted to keep the filter box on your S14, you will probably know well what a bitch it is taking the top off. Three clips are easy to deal with (the top one and the two along the long sides), but that bottom one! <img src=\"images/smilies/mad.gif\" alt=\"Mad\" height=\"15\" width=\"15\" /></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You can see the clip in question in Figure 1.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/filter_box_1.jpg\" alt=\"Filter Box Clip\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Filter Box Clip</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Removal is easy. Just push it off using a screwdriver (Figure 2).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/filter_box_3.jpg\" alt=\"Filter Clip Remove\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Filter Clip Remove</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">To re-seat the clip, use a piece of wire to hook over the clip (Figure 3).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/filter_box_2.jpg\" alt=\"Filter Box Hook\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Filter Box Hook</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Then pull the wire back over the filter box (Figure 4) and voila! Easy when you know how, huh?</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/filter_box_4.jpg\" alt=\"Filter Clip Replace\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Filter Clip Replace</span></span></p>\r\n<div align=\"left\">&nbsp;</div>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:48:22', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:35:51', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:48:22', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 2, '', '', 1, 3, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(116, 203, 'Front strut brace', 'front-strut-brace', '<p>Every car, by nature, has a degree of body flex whilst driving. This flexing causes the handling to be jittery on uneven surfaces and in intense driving situations. It is possible to reduce this significantly by fitting a strut brace in the engine bay. It is possible to get rear strut braces, but this guide deals with the more common front brace.</p>\r\n<p>The brace I installed was an Apexi item, though most are very similar. <span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">BEWARE of US 240SX strut braces.</span> The 240SX has a completely different engine and most brace clearances aren\'t suitable for the 200SX/Silvia.</p>\r\n<p>You will need a 14mm socket, a set of Allen keys and a spirit level to fit the brace.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The most important thing about fitting a brace is to ensure that the car is on completely level ground. Uneven ground means uneven suspension struts and a body that has already slightly twisted. The result of this COULD be a twisted chassis over time. Use a spirit level to check the ground or drive.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brace1.jpg\" alt=\"Check you\'re level!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Check you\'re level!</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The brace, as suggested, will be fitted on the two front suspension struts.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brace2.jpg\" alt=\"Suspension struts\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Suspension struts</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Undo the top strut nuts with a 14mm socket.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brace3.jpg\" alt=\"Right strut\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Right strut</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Place the brace over the strut bolts and hand tighten the nuts. Use the socket to tighten them evenly.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brace4.jpg\" alt=\"Place the brace\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Place the brace</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Once bolted to the struts, you will need to tighten the central brace to its mountings. Use an Allen key and a 14mm socket. These need to be TIGHT!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brace5.jpg\" alt=\"REALLY tight!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - REALLY tight!</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>How easy was that? Before dropping the bonnet, just lower it carefully to ensure there is proper clearance. There should be, but do you know for sure?!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/brace6.jpg\" alt=\"Brace in place!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Brace in place!</span></span></p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:48:42', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:35:59', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:48:42', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 1, '', '', 1, 2, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(117, 204, 'Coloured spark cover', 'coloured-spark-cover', '<p>Having given my engine bay a bit of a clean, I was struck by how colourless it looked. Not one to sit about if I can change something fairly easily, I did!</p>\r\n<p>Although this is a fairly easy modification, it does require a few days of patience, mainly allowing paint to dry. You will need a Torx screwdriver for removing the cover, and piece of fine wet and dry, a can of plastic primer spray, your choice of colour spray (I used Rover Nightfire Red as it\'s quite a nice pearlescent), a can of lacquer, a very fine modellers brush and a small amount of light coloured paint for the cover lettering. Optionally, you can touch-up the rocker cover at the same time. To achieve the same look as mine, you will need some rough wet and dry, a 2cm round brush and some matt black Hammerite High Heat.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>I think you will be quite lucky if your rocker cover has managed to retain all of it\'s paint intact. Should you want to touch this up, do the following. Once the spark cover has been removed using the appropriate Torx screwdriver, ensure that the rocker cover has been thoroughly cleaned with hot water and car detergent. Using the rough wet and dry, sand down all chipped and peeling paint and generally roughen as much surface as is accessible. The touching-up I did was only what I could access without removing anything. After sanding, wash off the rocker cover again. When dry, use the Hammerite and the round brush to dab paint generously (not so it runs!) so every \'visible\' surface is covered. Allow to dry for 30 minutes and repeat. You may want another coat after that use your judgment. Allow to dry overnight. Use the wet and dry to sand off the rocker cover letters. The result should be as in Figure 3.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/block_before.jpg\" alt=\"Block before\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Block before</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Now for the spark cover. Wash the cover thoroughly then roughen its surface all over using the fine wet and dry in water. When dry, apply two coats of plastic primer. If the surface isn\'t smooth when dry, rub down gently with fine wet and dry (in water) and apply another coat of primer. If surface is smooth, apply two or three coats of colour. Here again, if not smooth, use the wet and dry. If using pearlescent paint, it doesn\'t matter if it isn\'t shiney and polished; the lacquer takes care of that. It just needs to be smooth.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/grey_sparkcover.jpg\" alt=\"Spark cover\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 -Spark cover</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>There are a few ways to do the next step. The easiest is to use a fine modellers brush to carefully paint the letters with the colour of your choice. Once dry, apply two coats of lacquer. Yes, it\'s a purely cosmetic mod. But it doesn\'t half brighten the engine bay!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/block_after.jpg\" alt=\"Block after\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Block after</span></span></p>', '', 1, '31', '2024-01-15 01:49:03', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:36:07', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:49:03', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 0, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');
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(118, 205, 'Replacing mirror motors', 'replacing-mirror-motors', '<p align=\"left\">You will be very lucky if you have don\'t have at least one dodgy folding mirror on your S15! If you have thought that you\'ll have to buy a new wing mirror to sort the problem - you\'re wrong. Nissan, in a rare moment of forethought, designed the wing mirrors so that the electric mirror motor and power fold motor can be replaced separately, thus saving you a shedload of money.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">It is best to order these parts direct from Japan via japanparts.com or perfectrun.com.au.&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>Part numbers:</strong></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Mirror motors:</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">LH: 96366-85F00<br />RH: 96365-85F00</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Power fold motors:</strong></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">LH: 96370-85F00<br />RH: 96369-85F00</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Instructions of how to replace the power fold motor are not included in the English workshop manual.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Replacing the mirror motor is a doddle, but the power fold is more complex. To replace just a mirror motor, ignore all the instructions about removing the door trim and mirror and go straight to the bit about levering the mirror glass off. All the mirror motor instruction can be done with the wing mirror in situ.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You are going to need a crosshead and flathead screwdriver, a 10mm socket, long-nosed pliers and some wire cutters.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Firstly, the door trim need to be removed to allow the wing mirror to be unbolted. Figure 1 shows the location of all the screws., The door release trim panel need gently levering up from the right hand edge (arrowed yellow).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror1.jpg\" alt=\"Remove door trim\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Remove door trim</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">There is a screw behind a small plastic tab in the recessed door handle (Figure 2-1). The small panel in the main door handle needs gently levering up from the bottom edge (Figure 2-2) and the 10mm bolt (Figure 2-3) undoing. The door panel should now be free to lift away. It will still have wires connected to it, so just lower it from the door.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror2.jpg\" alt=\"Removing handle\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Removing handle</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Remove the plastic panel immediately behind the wing mirror. This should be done by gently pulling the plastic from under the rubber door trim on the outermost edge (Figure 3). The retaining bolts will now be revealed.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror3.jpg\" alt=\"Remove mirror trim\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Remove mirror trim</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Unclip the electrical connector (Figure 4) and unbolt the wing mirror using a 10mm socket (Figure 5).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror6.jpg\" alt=\"Unclip connector\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Unclip connector</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror4.jpg\" alt=\"Unbolt mirror\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Unbolt mirror</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The wing mirror should now lift away from the door (Figure 6). Carefully pull the electrical connector through and lift the unit free.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror5.jpg\" alt=\"Remove mirror\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Remove mirror</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Gently push the top edge of the mirror glass inwards. This will push the bottom edge out. Turn the unit upside down and look through the gap now created. You will see two definite grooves between the mirror backing and the motor behind. Using a suitably sized flathead screwdriver, place the head in the gap and gently lever the mirror away from the motor (Figure 7). Repeat for the other slot. The mirror glass will now by free to remove.&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror9.jpg\" alt=\"Remove mirror glass\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Remove mirror glass</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The white-faced mirror motor will now be visible. Undo the three arrowed screws in Figure 8 and turn the motor over (towards the wing mirror mount). The power fold motor is now visible underneath. On the back of the mirror motor you will see two flat connectors. The top connector is white, the bottom black. Pull these out and the mirror motor can be lifted free (Figure 9).&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror10.jpg\" alt=\"Remove mirror motor\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Remove mirror motor</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror12.jpg\" alt=\"Remove mirror motor connectors\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Remove mirror motor connectors</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">If replacing just the mirror motor, push the connectors into the new motor and reassemble.<br /><br />If replacing the power fold motor, the fun starts now. Undo the three screws on the base of the wing mirror (Figure 10) and lift the housing away from the mount to reveal the motor swivel. Undo the screw (Figure 11-1) and lift the wiring free from the swivel (Figure 11-2).&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror7.jpg\" alt=\"Remove these three screws\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Remove these three screws</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror8.jpg\" alt=\"Undo screw \'1\' and lift free\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - Undo screw \'1\' and lift free</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Undo the three arrowed screws holding the fold unit to the housing (Figure 12). The motor will now be loose, but cannot be removed from the wing mirror due to wiring.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror11.jpg\" alt=\"Undo three mirror fold motor screws\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12 - Undo three mirror fold motor screws</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Remember those flat mirror motor connectors? Turn them over and look at the metal connector side. These 90 degree spade connectors need releasing from the plastic. They should just pull out (Figure 13). The order of the wires is as follows:White connector<br /><br />Left = yellow<br />Right = greenBlack connector<br /><br />Left = blue<br />Right = purple<br /><br />You will need that information later.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror13.jpg\" alt=\"Remove connectors from holder\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 13 - Remove connectors from holder</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Turn the fold motor so that you can see where two wires (pink and orange) enter (Figure 14). The wires are held in by a grommet connector and needs removing using long-nosed pliers, as shown (Figures 14 &amp; 15).&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror14.jpg\" alt=\"Remove grommet\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 14 - Remove grommet</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror15.jpg\" alt=\"Pull connector out\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 15 - Pull connector out</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">All of these wires are threaded through the power fold motor swivel (look back at Figure 11). This is to allow them to remain static when the motor swivels the wing mirror around them. Remove a portion of the wrap around the wiring at the swivel end (Figure 16).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror16.jpg\" alt=\"Pull back wrap\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 16 - Pull back wrap</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Remove the insulating tape around the wires marked \'1\' in Figure 17. You will have to pull the wires through the fold motor a small amount to be able to remove all the tape. Do not try to pull any wires out of the motor yet. Once the tape is removed pull each wire in the main bundle through the motor individually. You will find that the 90 degree spade connectors are just fractionally too big to fit through. Carefully, but firmly pull the connectors through the hole. They will go, but need persuading. You may land up bending them slightly. Don\'t worry about this, just try to minimise this. Once all of these connector wires are through, pull the rubber grommet connector through. This will need to be pushed through using the pliers.<br /><br />Phew! All the wires are through and the fold motor is finally free to remove!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror19.jpg\" alt=\"Pull wires through\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 17 - Pull wires through</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Turn the motor over and remove the plastic plate around the swivel (Figure 18). Attach the same plate to the new motor.<br /><br />Take this opportunity to give the wing mirror housing a good clean.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror18.jpg\" alt=\"Transfer plastic plate\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 18 - Transfer plastic plate</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">OK. Everything in reverse now. The grommet connector needs forcing through the hole in the new motor first and inserting back into place (Figure 15). Then each wire in turn.<br /><br />Place the fold motor into position and screw it to the housing (Figure 19). Replace the screw in the swivel and clip the wiring back into the swivel (Figure 11).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror20.jpg\" alt=\"Screw new motor into housing\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 19 - Screw new motor into housing</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Straighten any of the 90 degree spade connectors which require it and clip them back into the flat plastic holders in the order noted above (Figure 13).<br /><br />Reattach the connectors to the mirror motor and screw the motor into place (Figure 20).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/mirror21.jpg\" alt=\"Re-attach connectors and mirror motor\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 20 - Re-attach connectors and mirror motor</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Reattach the mirror glass to the mirror motor.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Screw the wing mirror to the mounting (Figure 10).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Thread the mirror connector back through the door and join with the internal connector (Figure 4)</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Reattach the wing mirror.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Replace door trim.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>You\'re done!</p>', '', 1, '32', '2024-01-15 01:49:57', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:40:44', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:49:57', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 4, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(119, 206, 'Replacing air-conditioning filter', 'replacing-air-conditioning-filter', '<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\">Unlike the S14, the S15 has a replaceable air conditioner/ventilation filter. Judging by the state of the old filters which have come out of others cars, I\'d say that they are very rarely changed. There is one simple way to tell almost for certain if this is this case. It will be evident as you read on.</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><strong>Tools required:</strong> cross-head screwdriver and Stanley knife.</p>\r\n<p class=\"namo-table\" align=\"left\"><strong>Parts required:</strong> FILTER KIT - AIR CONDITIONER<span class=\"015352500-28042006\"> - </span>27277-86F25</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><strong>Service Interval:</strong> wash every 7500 miles/12000 Km or every 12 months (sooner in extreme conditions). Replace if noticeably dirty.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>You need to first remove the glovebox. To do this, remove the two plastic pins located just under the base of the glovebox (Figure 1).</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_1.jpg\" alt=\"Remove glovebox\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Remove glovebox</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The pins are easy to locate and are shown in Figure 2.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_2.jpg\" alt=\"Remove these pins\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Remove these pins</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>With the pins removed, the glovebox can be opened and the door lifted free. A black metal plate will now be visible (Figure 3). This is where you can tell if the filter has ever been changed by Nissan. If you have a piece of trim running across where the two dotted lines are in Figure 3, it is unlikely the filter has been changed. The reason why is that this piece of plastic needs cutting to enable access to the filter. Ignore the two bits of cabling shown in Figure 3, as these are accessory cables.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_cut.jpg\" alt=\"Remove indicated trim if still in place\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Remove indicated trim if still in place</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>With the cross-section removed, unscrew the five screw around the edge of the black plate (Figure 4).</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_3.jpg\" alt=\"Remove indicated screws\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Remove indicated screws</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>The metal plate can now be lifted away. You will see that a connector is attached to it (Figure 5). There is no need to remove this connector. Simply let the plate hang loose.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_4.jpg\" alt=\"Remove plate\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Remove plate</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>You can now see the ventiilation system and a flap running down the left side of it (Figure 6). Undo the connector arrowed (1), then remove the clip arrowed (2). The cabling directly in front of the flap can now be tucked under the ventilation unit out of the way.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_5.jpg\" alt=\"Undo connector and clip\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Undo connector and clip</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Remove the flap as shown in Figure 7. You will now see the filter.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_6.jpg\" alt=\"Remove flap\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Remove flap</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Pull the filter out towards you (Figure 8) and marvel at how disgustingly filthy it is!</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_7.jpg\" alt=\"Remove old filter\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Remove old filter</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Figure 9 shows the comparison between old and new.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/ac_filter_8.jpg\" alt=\"A comparison shows how dirty the old filter is!\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Ewwww! New and old.</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">It is possible to simply wash the filter rather than replace it if you wish. Wash it thoroughly in warm soapy water and allow to completely dry.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Insert the new/cleaned filter, replace the flap and re-clip it into place.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Reattach the connector (Figure 6).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Reattach the black metal plate (Figure 4).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Place the glovebox door in place and reinsert its plastic pins.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Enjoy the fresh air!</p>', '', 1, '32', '2024-01-15 01:50:15', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:40:33', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:50:15', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 3, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(120, 207, 'Removing the combination meter', 'removing-the-combination-meter', '<p>If your combination meter (instrument pod) is anything like mine was, you may well have patchy back-lighting, or warning lights that you never knew you had! This is probably because some of your tiny dash bulbs have blown or blackened.</p>\r\n<p>Changing these bulbs is actually quite easy, however, getting to them is a bit fiddly. You will need to remove the entire instrument pod from the dash to allow proper access.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">A couple of things to be aware of:</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">In true Nissan fashion, the replacement bulbs and sockets (sold together) cost an extortionate amount, so if you know of cheaper alternatives, go for it. Don\'t be tempted to use white LED bulbs. These are too glaring and play havoc with the colouring of all the warning lights and back-lighting.</p>\r\n<p>When you remove the plugs from the back of the meter (see later), it will reset your clock and trip meters. So make a note if the figures are important. The odometer is unaffected.</p>\r\n<p>WARNING! Be very careful when accessing the rear of the combination meter. NEVER have the ignition switched on and ensure nothing touches the contacts while the connectors are still attached. The meter is very sensitive and circuits can easily be blown. Nearly every electrical circuit in the car goes through the combination meter, so damaging it is not good news!</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You will need a cross-head and small flat-head screwdriver.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Undo the three screws holding the top cover on the steering column (arrowed in Figure 1).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_1.jpg\" alt=\"Remove cowl screws\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1 - Remove cowl screws</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The cover will unclip by pulling it up (Figure 2). Lower the steering column using the heigh adjuster.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_2.jpg\" alt=\"Remove cowl\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2 - Remove cowl</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Undo the two screws holding the combination meter surround into the dash (arrowed in Figure 3).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_3.jpg\" alt=\"Remove combination meter surround screws\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3 - Remove combination meter surround screws</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Remove the surround by pulling the bottom edge towards you (Figure 4). Once it unclips, push it slightly down to release the top edge away from the top of the dash.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_4.jpg\" alt=\"Pull bottom edge of surround towards you\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4 - Pull bottom edge of surround towards you</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">With a little manoeuvring, the surround will lift clear (Figure 5). Watch out for the two push controls in the pod and the (rather inconvenient) wiring and plugs on the steering column.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_5.jpg\" alt=\"Lift surround clear\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5 - Lift surround clear</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">You now have access to the actual combination meter. Remove the three retaining screws (arrowed in Figure 6).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_6.jpg\" alt=\"Remove combination meter screws\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6 - Remove combination meter screws</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">The meter will now pull forward (Figure 7). It won\'t move very far, as it is still attached by three connectors on the rear.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_7.jpg\" alt=\"Pull meter forward\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7 - Pull meter forward</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Tilt the top left edge of the meter towards you. You will see a white connector (Figure 8). Using a small flat-head screwdriver, push the connector-lock in until it releases, then remove the connector block. This is the trickiest of the three connectors, due to the lack of movement in the wiring loom.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_8.jpg\" alt=\"Undo left connector\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8 - Undo left connector</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">With the first connector removed, the meter will tilt further forward allowing you to see two more (brown) connectors. Use the flat-head screwdriver to remove the second centre connector (Figure 9).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_9.jpg\" alt=\"Tilt meter more and undo centre connector\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9 - Tilt meter more and undo centre connector</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Tilt the meter further and repeat for the third connector (Figure 10).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_10.jpg\" alt=\"Remove right connector\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10 - Remove right connector</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">With the three connectors removed, you can lift the combination meter clear of the dash. If you are struggling to get the meter past the steering colunm, check that you lowered the column fully. You will now see an empty dash and lots of wiring (Figure 11).</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_11.jpg\" alt=\"Lift meter out\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11 - Lift meter out</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Take a look at the combination meter now. Treat it carefully, as it is a precision instrument and can be damaged if knocked about too much. Turn it over and look at the back (Figure 12). You will see all of the small bulb sockets. You can see in the photo of mine that there are only two different coloured sockets. In fact, there should be three different colours.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_12.jpg\" alt=\"Rear view on combination meter\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12 - Rear view on combination meter</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Figure 13 shows the FAST part layout for the rear of the combination meter. The bulbs are labelled A, B and C. The key shows which are which. Basically, the brown sockets are for warning lights, the black sockets for back-light and the blue sockets to back-light the two LCD elements.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_fast.jpg\" alt=\"FAST diagram of bulbs\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 736px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 13 - FAST diagram of bulbs</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<div align=\"left\">&nbsp;</div>\r\n<div align=\"left\">\r\n<table border=\"0\" cellpadding=\"5\" cellspacing=\"5\">\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td><strong>A</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; <br /></strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>14V - 1.4W</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; <br /></strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>P/N: 24860-40F01</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; <br /></strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>Brown Socket</strong></td>\r\n</tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td><strong>B</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>14V - 3W</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>P/N: 26262-01P40</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>Black Socket</strong></td>\r\n</tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td><strong>C</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>14V - 2W</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>P/N: 24860-40F02</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>&nbsp;</strong></td>\r\n<td><strong>Blue Socket</strong></td>\r\n</tr>\r\n</tbody>\r\n</table>\r\n</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">Remove each socket by twisting it and check for any blackened/blown bulbs (Figure 14) and replace as necessary. You may find it beneficial to hold the pod up to the light to see which warning lights are which. You may find that you have never seen them lit before! Some of the socket holes will be empty due to either being blanked-off or certain equipment not being fitted. Two examples are the HICAS and fog warning lights.</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/instrum_13.jpg\" alt=\"Check bulbs\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 14 - Check bulbs</span></span></p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Once you are happy that all bulbs are working, refit the meter by following the instructions in reverse.</p>', '', 1, '32', '2024-01-15 01:50:34', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:40:26', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:50:34', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 2, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', ''),
(121, 208, 'Fitting a C\'s short shifter', 'fitting-a-c-s-short-shifter', '<p>A pictorial guide to fitting a C\'s short shifter gear lever. No written instructions accompany this guide.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p align=\"left\">&nbsp;<span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_1.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 1</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_2.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 2</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_3.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 3</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_4.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 4</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_5.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 5</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_6.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 6</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_7.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 7</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_8.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 8</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_9.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 9</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_10.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 10</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_11.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 11</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_12.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 12</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_13.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 13</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_14.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 14</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_15.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 15</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_16.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 16</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_17.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 17</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_18.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 18</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_19.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 19</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_20.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 20</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_21.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 21</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_22.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 22</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_23.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 23</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_24.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 24</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_25.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 25</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_26.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 26</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_27.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 27</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_28.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 28</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_29.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 29</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_30.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 30</span></span></p>\r\n<div>&nbsp;</div>\r\n<p align=\"left\"><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/c_shifter_31.jpg\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 523px; text-align: center; display: block;\">Figure 31</span></span></p>', '', 1, '32', '2024-01-15 01:50:55', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:40:18', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:50:55', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 1, '', '', 1, 1, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');
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(122, 209, 'Check S15 fault codes - paperclip method', 'check-s15-fault-codes-paperclip-method', '<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>Nissan ECCS allows you to read any stored fault codes without any specialist equipment.</p>\r\n<p>The diagnostic plug on S15\'s is located near the drivers right knee behind a small panel.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/s15_consult_location.jpg\" alt=\"s15 consult location\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 512px; text-align: center; display: block;\">S15 Consult location</span></span></p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>Please read all the following instructions in full before you attempt to carry a fault code read out.</strong></span></p>\r\n<p>1. Switch the ignition to the ON position but do not start the car.<br />2. Depending on its orientation of the consult plug (see below) bridge the two lower left, or upper right pins on the consult plug with the wire paper clip <strong>for 5 seconds, then remove the bridge</strong>.</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"display: inline-table;\" class=\"wf_caption\"><img style=\"margin-top: auto; margin-bottom: auto;\" src=\"images/guides/s15_consult_plug.jpg\" alt=\"s15 consult plug\" height=\"NaN\" width=\"100%\" /><span style=\"max-width: 256px; text-align: center; display: block;\">S15 Consult plug</span></span></p>\r\n<p>3. Observe and write down the sequence of flashes produced by the engine check light in the combination meter.<br />4. Once you are satisfied you have all the fault codes, bridge the consult pins again (<strong>basically, repeat step 2</strong>) and this will erase any stored fault codes and revert the ECU back its normal operation. It is important you carry out this part or the ECU will continue to repeat the stored codes.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>Understanding the fault code readout:</strong></span></p>\r\n<p>ECU fault codes are displayed on the engine check light in the combination meter and are displayed by the number of flashes as well as the speed of the flashes.<br />For example, an ECU showing no recorded faults will display code 55. The first digit is shown as 5 long flashes (tens) followed by a pause and followed by the second digit - 5 short flashes. Thus Code 55.</p>\r\n<p><br />11 - Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor. <br />12 - Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor. <br />13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. <br />14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor. <br />21 - Ignition Signal. <br />22 - Fuel Pump. <br />23 - Idle Switch. <br />24 - Throttle Valve Switch. <br />25 - Idle Speed Control Valve. <br />28 - Cooling Fan Circuit. <br />31 - ECM. <br />32 - EGR Function. <br />33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor. <br />34 - Knock Sensor. <br />35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor. <br />36 - EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer. <br />37 - Knock Sensor. <br />38 - Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2). <br />41 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor. <br />42 - Fuel Temperature Sensor. <br />43 - Throttle Position Sensor. <br />45 - Injector Leak. <br />47 - Crankshaft Position Sensor. <br />51 - Injector Circuit. <br />53 - Oxygen Sensor. <br />54 - A/T Control. <br />55 - No Malfunction. <br />63 - No. 6 Cylinder Misfire. <br />64 - No. 5 Cylinder Misfire. <br />65 - No. 4 Cylinder Misfire. <br />66 - No. 3 Cylinder Misfire. <br />67 - No. 2 Cylinder Misfire. <br />68 - No. 1 Cylinder Misfire. <br />71 - Random Misfire. <br />72 - TWC Function right hand bank. <br />73 - TWC Function right hand bank. <br />76 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank. <br />77 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit. <br />82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor. <br />84 - A/T Diagnosis Communication Line. <br />85 - VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit. <br />86 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank. <br />87 - Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit. <br />91 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank. <br />94 - TCC Solenoid Valve. <br />95 - Crankshaft Position Sensor. <br />98 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. <br />101 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank. <br />103 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit. <br />105 - EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit. <br />108 - Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\r\n<p>This guide comes to you courtesy of craig8585 and justin666 via the <a href=\"http://www.s15oc.com\" title=\"S15 Owners Club\" target=\"_parent\">S15 Owners Club</a>.</p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;</p>', '', 1, '32', '2024-01-15 01:51:23', 465, '', '2024-01-15 02:40:10', 465, NULL, NULL, '2024-01-15 01:51:23', NULL, '{\"image_intro\":\"\",\"float_intro\":\"\",\"image_intro_alt\":\"\",\"image_intro_caption\":\"\",\"image_fulltext\":\"\",\"float_fulltext\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_alt\":\"\",\"image_fulltext_caption\":\"\"}', '{\"urla\":false,\"urlatext\":\"\",\"targeta\":\"\",\"urlb\":false,\"urlbtext\":\"\",\"targetb\":\"\",\"urlc\":false,\"urlctext\":\"\",\"targetc\":\"\"}', '{\"article_layout\":\"\",\"show_title\":\"\",\"link_titles\":\"\",\"show_tags\":\"\",\"show_intro\":\"\",\"info_block_position\":\"\",\"info_block_show_title\":\"\",\"show_category\":\"\",\"link_category\":\"\",\"show_parent_category\":\"\",\"link_parent_category\":\"\",\"show_associations\":\"\",\"show_author\":\"\",\"link_author\":\"\",\"show_create_date\":\"\",\"show_modify_date\":\"\",\"show_publish_date\":\"\",\"show_item_navigation\":\"\",\"show_icons\":\"\",\"show_print_icon\":\"\",\"show_email_icon\":\"\",\"show_vote\":\"\",\"show_hits\":\"\",\"show_noauth\":\"\",\"urls_position\":\"\",\"alternative_readmore\":\"\",\"article_page_title\":\"\",\"show_publishing_options\":\"\",\"show_article_options\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_backend\":\"\",\"show_urls_images_frontend\":\"\"}', 2, 0, '', '', 1, 3, '{\"robots\":\"\",\"author\":\"\",\"rights\":\"\",\"xreference\":\"\"}', 0, '*', '');

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